Thursday, October 14, 2010

OOP YSL pants Vogue 2410 part two - couture techniques

Have you ever played hide and seek with your lining fabric.  I could have sworn I had black, but could not find it, so I'm using a cotton lawn fabric for the pocket lining and hong kong finish on the seams.  A little color in a drab pant.

There are a few interesting details in this pattern, the pocket and the waistband have caught my attention.
Originally the pant had a welt back flap pocket, and topstitching on the waistband and side seam, my pant will have neither.  The front pockets are formed on the front pant piece, what?  Well usually what I've seen in patterns is that the pocket/lining piece is joined then if there is topstitching, the little sewn pocket is then topstitched down to the front piece, or left loose.

The pocket on these pants is formed first by creating the finished pocket opening.


 Then basting the lining piece to the pant front.

 When you turn it over you have a lovely finished edge.


 The final step is turning 1/2" seam allowance on the bottom and long edge of the pocket and topstitching down.


My iron died last night, so I'll follow up with pics of the finished pocket in the next post!

4 comments:

corinne said...

You are probably tired of my questions. Love this pocket technique. Did you apply any stay tape to the pant pocket edge? I used this technique on a pair a couple years ago and used the selvage edge, cut from the fashion fabric, as a stay. It worked out OK but it left a ridge there. I have a bad habit of actually using my pockets and they tend to droop with wear. Perhaps a fusible?

ELMO said...

Hello Corinne, I did not apply stay tape, although you could do that if you're concerned, I like that it has a "rolled" quality to it. This was my first attempt at these pants, if I make them again in the same weight fabric, I might stabilize it with some silk organza. You could do fusible although, I generally stay away from them prefering woven interfacings.

Corinne said...

Hi Elmo, thanks for answering my question. The silk organza would eliminate the ridge that I didn't care for. I am not a fan of fusible inter-facings, although I have used them in the past. I find that they change the hand of the fabric too much. Can't wait to see the finished project.

ELMO said...

Well for me it's a couple of things, first finding the better quality fusible (which can be costly), and secondly applying the fusible properly. I am on the hunt for a pressing table where I can set the temperature and apply the fusible in one go. I DO NOT LIKE BUBBLES!!