No Mystery Iconic YSL 80's

There's no point to making this a mystery, this gentleman is known to all Yves St Laurent. A brief collection of iconic looks from the 80's.

Summer skirts - destash project

I am again beginning to lose my momentum under the fabric issue, this happens whenever I am working on more than two things at a time. I start to pull out fabrics for one project and see something else and then pull that out and then trace patterns. So I have decided to destash by sewing up some quick garments, and the ones I don't think suit me are getting donated. I would think the charities would be happy to receive something that isn't threadbare. So in my mind everybody wins. I get to practice and they get new merchandise, but before that happens I really need casual things to knock about in. So I started with a super simple pattern



This is really what I wanted, simple separates for summer that were crisp and lightweight. Of course before long, I decided to change the pattern. I liked the idea of the Marrakesh pants and wanted to translate that to a skirt. The idea being no darts. I know HP produce a "slouchy" skirt but I'm not spending now and thought this pattern was good to start with, incidentally this pattern also sits 2" below the waist just like the HP pattern. The skirt they show on the envelope cover is cut on the bias, when I opened the pattern, strangely enough they do not show the grainline on the bias for the shorter version. It is cut on the straight with the drawstring yoke piece on the bias. That was fine because it turned out I didn't have enough fabric for the bias version. There is one piece that serves for both the front and back skirt. Talk about simple. So I decided to use just the skirt and did not cut out the yoke, I basted the sides and tried it on, gave it a little more shaping along the side seam at the waist & hip. Then I popped in the zipper and sewed up both side seams. I turned the hem up 1/4" and topstitched, and drafted a little 1 1/4" waistband and I'm done. I cut 2 versions, one in a linen which is underlined, and this one which is a Marc Jacobs cotton lycra canvas print from Fabric Mart fabrics. It looks very cute with a black tank top in my wardrobe.



Here is the linen version that has been underlined in a lightweight twill.

Playsuits spring 2010

These are a long way from what I used to wear for phys ed, but the more I see them, the more they are growing on me. First I thought, they're too short, then I thought well, if I'm comfortable in shorts this really isn't a leap, and there's such a variety to choose from.

Here's an oldie but goodie from Claire McCardell, although I have to admit it has a bit of a diaper drape that I would stay away from.



Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art


Steve Alan


Allexander Wang


Jason Wu


Elizabeth and James

Courtesy of net-a-porter

Christian Cota Sp 2010 unusual textiles

I'm back at Style.com perusing the collections and have decided to venture into some lesser known designers. Christian Cota made use of some really unusual textiles. I have seen some of these fabrics offered online and thought, what would you make out of this? He has taken up the challenge.







Courtesy of Style.com

A Metropolitan of Art teaser

The American Woman then and Now This is a presentation by Style.com aimed to titilate no doubt. Be sure to click on the lower left hand corner on the black and white slide where it says "click to begin". Get a big mug of tea or coffee, there are 48 slides with brief histories.

Swimwear inspiration

The promise of summer is just around the corner, you might find some style inspiration at these sites.



Gottex

Norma Kamali (navigate to swimwear styles on the left)

Saks Fifth Avenue Swimwear

Mystery designer 2... the answer

I picked some pretty obscure styles because most of my scans carried his logo across the image but here are some more.

This looks pretty dated, I think I would give it a v-neck and remove the sleeves to make it less "covered".

Another mystery designer...

This house is still open, the images below are from mid 1980's.

Cotton Crinkle Summer Shirt - finished

Finished, a shirt to run around in, it's light, cool, and roomy. It still needs a good pressing, and I'm hoping that going forward after washing it, I can just hang it up. I originally made ties to tie into a bow, but it was changed to what you see below, just a simple little knot. I like it better.



The body & sleeve hem were serged twice, so there's a little bit of a lettuce leaf finish to it. This fabric tends to stretch out after it is worn for awhile, but shrinks back up after it is washed. I will definitely take the ease out of the sleeve cap for the next version. The fabric was from a FabricMart bundle, and I still have enough for a short skirt

Cotton Crinkle Summer Shirt

This is my latest project, I have gone through my everyday knock about clothes and if I eliminate what is shabby, painted, drab.... well, I won't be left with very many options. So this was supposed to be a muslin for this pattern New Look 6891.



It's a nice simple pattern, and as we all do, I started thinking how I could change it. I don't really care for the center front seam, the center back seam, but there is shaping in the back so I decided to keep all of the seams for the muslin, and take notes and make changes on the next version.



Here is the muslin, of course I felt the need to complicate what should be a really simple shirt by using a fabric I've never sewn before and using a contrast trim (soon to come). The neckline on this pattern runs large. The kind of large that will leave you exposing more than a cheeky shoulder if you aren't careful. I pinned 3" TTL on the back seam. When I make this again, I'm going to raise the neckline about 1" TTL front and back by pinning the shoulders, and redrawing the armhole, and add back the length lost at the hem. The sleeves also have quiet a bit of gathering (but that could be exaggerated by the crinkle texture of the fabric). I have decided for the time being not to gather the bottom of the sleeve but just leave it as a bell sleeve.



This fabric was prewashed before I cut it and I was surprised how it shrunk up, I ended up with a much narrower fabric when it came out of the dryer, about 10" narrower than when I started. After reading a bit about it, before I cut the pattern, the fabric was pressed and the crinkles relaxed. Instead of sewing in a tuck or eliminating the back fullness, I have sprayed the fabric with water to wet it, and popped it into the dryer. I am hoping that that will shrink the fabric a but more so that I don't have to ease the neckline by machine. It's in the dryer as we speak.

Twin Needle practice

Threads magazine has a brief article for using a twin needle on a small project. I have never used a twin needle but I may give this project a go.

Twin and triple needle tutorial

Japan Dream Worlds

One of the contestants on Project Runway (Jeffrey Sebelia)had a Japanese inspired collection. Follow this link to an online exhibit of Dream Worlds Modern Japanese prints and paintings from the Robert O. Muller foundation.

Especially the blue tab "the quality of light", and click on "add screen" to see the progression of color that results from layering all of those wood blocks.

Alexis Mabille couture sp 2010

This couture fashion house had some interesting design elements for spring 2010.

I love this jacket, despite the challenge of looking for something to wear under it, I like the idea of the ties and the open space. It could be worn over a corset top, or a white fitted t-shirt. Definitely not an office look.



This dress has the most impossibly sheer sleeves I've ever seen.



I love what they've done with the appliques here.



Ok, who else thinks this looks like cousin It? How do you think this would survive on project runway? However I do like the contrast between the veil and the cape (look for the good in design)

Steampunk - influencing fashion

Steampunk is a sub-genre of science fiction and speculative fiction, frequently featuring elements of fantasy, that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used — usually the 19th century, and often Victorian era England — but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date. Other examples of steampunk contain alternate history-style presentations of "the path not taken" of such technology as dirigibles, analog computers, or digital mechanical computers (such as Charles Babbage's Analytical engine); these frequently are presented in an idealized light, or with a presumption of functionality. (Courtesy of wikipedia)

I've always enjoyed sci fi, Ray Bradbury, Doctor Who, Blade Runner, Isaac Asimov, J.R.R. Tolkien (although I found it difficult to get throught The Hobbit, I wasn't ready to learn a new language and alphabet). You would never know it to look at my closet, and except for a brief period in design school, it has never influenced my clothing decisions. But a lot of what I have seen of steampunk (when executed in a more sophisticated way) intrigues me. It reminds me of the clockworks in my grandmother's gold watch, and am on the lookout for steampunk details that can be incorporated in clothing without screaming "Look I'm wearing Steampunk".



The driving gloves, the collar, the pin, narrow lapel, you can bet what we are looking at is the ne plus ultra of fabrics and tailoring outside of the typical steampunk budget:). I'm only sorry that they didn't have a photograph of his reticulated rings.

Here are some details which may may be introduced without looking like a costume.

Buttons.


(courtesy of ebay seller treasurecastinc) I've never ordered from this vendor but they seem to have a pretty good rating.

Anthropologie has these cute laceup booties with metal buttons.



Azzedine Alaia - corset belt (ok probably not within our budgets but other versions are)

Ready-to-Wear Vs Haute Couture

Ready-to-Wear Vs Haute Couture
Originally uploaded by Chicago History Museum

The Chicago History Museum has a flickr account you might want to check out . I especially like this side by side illustration of where we sometimes go wrong when we're copying garments for ready wear. The figure on the right has more detail, more volume in the skirt, the cinched in waist, shallower curve of the neckline, the little v at the center, but most of all the proportions. The curve of the waist, slightly shorter hemline, and sleeves take the look from frumpy to gorgeous.


They also have a blog where they report that Haute Couture creations sell for $20,000 to $150,000, and being these are rarified figures to spend on clothing, the Haute Couture houses only have about 200 repeat customers. Just one of the reasons these houses stretch their reach to ready to wear... one can not live on Art alone.

Chicago Chic - Chicago History Museum

A little armchair museum travel, the link below will take you to the the flickr account fo the Chicago History Museum. Check the slideshow button on the upper right corner. There are a few images, including designs by Worth, Vionnet, and Poiret. They also have other sets that include vintage Halloween costumes that are charming, and don't miss the lobster hat!


Chicago Chic flickr slideshow.

Mystery designer... Gianni Versace

Ok, no one has guessed who the mystery designer was so I'm posting more pics of his collections from the mid 1980's.



Everyone wrapped their heads in large sheets of fabric...


This dress is classic.







Hey wait a minute, are those cargo pants??

DVF wrap dress in cotton

It's the same pattern making an appearance again, Vogue 8379. Interesting how it looks like a completely different dress from this one.

I went in a different direction with this version, making it out of cotton lycra knit, and instead of self ties, a woven chino fabric. The woven serves as a belt so I can get a nice firm tie and the knots are pretty in this fabric. Since I liked selvage, I left it unfinished at the ends but the edges are turned under twice to prevent it from unravelling.

I'm still working on the tie placement.


The ties look long here but it doesn't wrap as much with a body in it.






I also eliminated the gathers at the sleeve cap in the original pattern, as I felt it made it look dated. The wedge represents the amount that was reduced.





I still have a yard left over (am I the only one who tries to use every little bit?), but it's so soft I'm sure to make one more thing.