Adonising - 1807 - The fashionable expression for "dressing for dinner".
It is a little art, history, fashion, style, fabric, trims, buttons, laces, silhouette, design, vintage, antique and beauty. In other words a treasure trove of details in women's garment design.
The definition of Adonising can be found in C.W & P.E Cunnington, A Dictionary of English Costume 900-1900, Charles Beard.
Available for sale now!! So you don't have to spend an arm and a leg getting the OOP pattern.
So Vogue has a misprint on their pattern description on the website. The latest release from Claire Shaeffer is another Chanel jacket and has a three piece sleeve. For your viewing pleasure the patterns side by side.
New Release Vogue 8804
OOP Vogue 8259
Get over to the Vogue website, or if you are a BMV member take advantage of their sale.
Look how cute this dart is!!! The two threads you see are the tails of the thread tracing that mark the legs beyond the dart point. Thread tracing does make you accurate.
Here's the jacket progress...
The body is sewn together (except for the shoulders) and lightly pressed.. I had planned on a dart but if I can get away without one I'd prefer it. Once that is resolved I can move ahead to the sleeves. Considering all of the work, it's moving pretty quickly.
Ok so we've already established that using dark marks on white organza when attaching it to light transparent fabrics is probably not a great idea. You could maybe get away with using it only on the seam lines, and not for marking the grain lines on the center of the patterns, another risk is exposing the seam line markings if you need to let seams out in the final fitting. After trying chemicals, and the ironing on brown paper to absorb the wax, the markings remained. So choose carefully.
On to Thread Tracing
(ahhh doesn't that look better? The organza has been recut)
You'll be happy to hear the thread tracing is finished on the body, tomorrow I'll tackle the sleeves, so here's what we've learned....
Using highly contrasting thread on your thread tracing probably also a no no. I had to recut one side panel to make the side seam adjustment and pulled out all of the thread tracing. What was left behind was a very light blue line making it look dirty from the right side. You can see it here.
The Japanese basting thread has short fibers (which is a good property for thread tracing). It grips the fabric in a way that regular sewing thread does not. Choose a color closer to the fashion fabric, and if you can't find any....
What can you use to substitute?
How about some DMC cotton embroidery floss, and I just happen to have some in a perfect color for this project.
If you've never used this before, follow these instructions. Embroidery floss is really 6 twisted threads in one strand.
When you use it for embroidery, you select the number of threads you want to use and pull them out one by one. For thread tracing, cut the strand the length you want to use, and separate the threads.
Pull one thread and hold the end of the strand (make sure it's only one thread you're holding onto). It should come out easily enough, you'll be left with a curly 5 thread strand, but you can find the end and straighten the remaining strand out.
You'll repeat this for every thread you need, just find one thread end hold the opposite end in the other hand and pull that one out of the pack. Or if you want to be like Martha Stewart you can go to the DMC-USA website for neat illustrations on how to separate the strands properly :) (we love Martha).
What's nice about it is that it's readily available, you are bound to get a better color match, or coordinated color, you don't need a special needle for it, it goes a long way and it's not expensive.
I love the way this is turning out. It's a much slimmer cut than the original pattern. Here is a side by side.
So we can see, it's not boxy at all, although there is ease in it.
This was version 3 - which really no longer resembles the original, but the major change on this version was
the addition of the side back panel, and the small bust dart. I was also surprised that even after making a muslin the fabric version had to be tweaked further. I took up some darts on the shoulders (that you can see above), and I had to let out the side panel so it would fall straight.
Now, I'm really pleased with this jacket except for one thing.... the markings made on the organza show through the fabric. I have tried to use some pretty toxic chemicals to get the marks out but they prevail. So tonight and tomorrow, I'll be cutting out a new organza lining for the front and back, and maybe some sleeve pieces and re working the thread tracing and save these pieces for another jacket where this won't be a problem. Just when you think you've got it, Murphy strikes!!
There are a lot of interesting notions for sewing and you really could spend every penny buying them. I'm onto the thread tracing for the jacket and have decided to try some Japanese cotton basting thread. It comes in a skein.
I wasn't sure what to do next.... if it were a knitting yarn I would wind some balls with it.
So here's one way to deal with it.
Remove the paper (that's where the knot should be hiding)
Open the skein.
Find the knot
Cut the knot, or not. You can leave it would around all of the strands or you can cut it.
Then I cut the large loop on one end.
Now every time I need a strand I just pull one out.
So far I've found that it's a good length for basting, the thread has short fibers which makes it easy to pull out after the garment is sewn but it does tend to knot a bit in use.
It's been a long night, so please excuse the cropped photos, this was the best I could do, the camera was not my friend today.
I'm ready to try this in a not so dear fabric, just so I can move out of the muslin stage, and I really need jackets.
So first up, not a boucle.
This is a wool crepe with woven ribs, it's bouncy and has a little drape although the weave makes it a bit more stable. Not a color I would choose normally but I have a few things in the stash that will coordinate with it.
For this version I will eliminate the back princess lines, so that will add a bit of ease on the back panel.
Here's muslin No. 2 with changes from the original pattern. I'm pleased with this but recognize there is still some tweaking to be done. For instance, the back needs a little more ease. The back armhole needs to be adjusted to eliminate those diagonal folds. When the jacket is worn with nothing beneath it, it looks better, but I will wear the jacket with a little t-shirt or blouse, so that's something to consider when you are making jackets or coats. You need to test it with clothing under the garment to get a more realistic picture of what it will look like in use.
The original pattern had one side panel, and no shaping on the back.
No wonder it's boxy.
- back side panel added (for shaping)
- back princess seams (more contour)
- small tuck in front princess seam panel (accommodate bust fullness)
So here we have version 2 of the muslin. It's looking a lot better.... maybe when it's not 2am I'll post better pics, maybe when someone offers me that second pot of tea at 3 in the afternoon, I will turn it down.
This is the holy grail of Chanel jacket patterns... the one with the three piece sleeve.
Do you hear angels singing?
Now I have this pattern and I made a muslin....
Can you say bleh?
I'm not against the round neckline, or that it falls at the hip, it's what happens between the two that I find objectionable. This is the kind of fit I get in RTW, the kind that sends me home to a box of chocolate and a bottle of red wine. It conjures up images of all of the ill fitting clothing I've ever had to wear, including that one piece jumper with bloomer bottoms and snap front I had to wear for gym class in high school... eeewwww.
The sleeve, is another story, and it's why everyone who wants to make this jacket tries to find this pattern.... no I'm not going to show you the sleeve, you must be patient (especially you becki... bwahaha).
I need to get this muslin sorted out first and do a bit more research, because in it's current state I will forget the whole idea. We all know by now this jacket is good for people with strong shoulders and lean bodies, and we curvy girls need a little more shape because we have waists and need to emphasize them.
This was purchased to make a Chanel jacket, primarily because it is a Linton boucle, it was a good price, and I needed some practice with this type of fabric. Pink is not first on my list of favorite colors... so the challenge will be to make this acceptable to wear. Time and time again what online sellers provide is a closeup of fabrics.
And you think, sure it has some pink but it's not predominant, it will be fine. It's home and, it's pink, or pink and white.
Maybe it's better from the wrong side.
How about right side bias?
How about side by side?
How about the same but further away?
Just another element of the alchemy of design.... fabrics that misrepresent themselves like partners on a first date... they just want to get you to bring them home (and we all know that fabric stores come sometimes be hostile environments)... so I accuse this fabric of online flirting.... there ought to be a law.