"Adonising" Dressing for Dinner

Corset Grommet installation - How to...

2012-02-25T10:00:00.002-05:00

If you were wondering how the grommets look so nice down the center back of the corset, here's my secret.

You need:
Grommets (2 part grommet, if there's only one piece it's an eyelet and steer clear from those)
Grommet tool
Base
Die
Piece of soft wood
Hammer
Awl
Really sharp small scissors

The grommets used in this corset are size 00 - I bought the grommet tools as a set (die, tool, base, wood block).

MAKE A SAMPLE - Count your grommets and make sure you have enough for your project plus a few extra. Test the installation on that. Since I had fabric from this project I tested it, after all the die has to go through 3 layers of fabric here, I wanted to get a feel for the process.

So you start by marking your item. I used a very fine point permanent marker (yes it was a little bold of me, but I tested it on a scrap to make sure the ink wouldn't run).

For the next step you'll need your die, hammer and wood block.
The die is a long tube, one end has a sharp edge which cuts through the fabric, the other is meant to take the pounding of the hammer. DO NOT EVER HAMMER THE WRONG SIDE - you'll damage the die and never get a nice cut from it again.

Place your die exactly where you want the opening being careful to line everything up properly. You'll notice my marks were not centered but the holes are, the die was aligned when the it was placed for cutting.

Make sure your die is centered on the wood piece below, and is straight up and down. You want to be certain that the die will strike the wood below evenly to make an even cut into the fabric. Strike the end with the hammer a few times before lifting. If you pick your die up and there's no clean cut you have the option of placing the die exactly where it was and continuing to hammer, or if you have a partial cut you can take your scissors and trim as needed. It takes me 2-3 strikes to get the die through cleanly. When the die was new, only once.

You'll notice that some of mine still have little tags, these were trimmed.

The grommet has two pieces, one that is tall, and the other that is flat (like a washer but curved).

Place the tall piece on the base with the shaft facing up, and the wider part nesting in the concave groove.

Place the face of the fabric down over the grommet.

Place the flatter piece over the grommet neck (curve side up).

Place the grommet tool in the center.

Make sure that the bottom grommet piece is still nested in the base, and hammer it in.

Now a few things can happen here, your tool gets stuck in the grommet. Line everything up again and give it another good whack with the hammer, it should release.... or it's perfect :) yay!

It's very gratifying to finish, and it releases stress.

You can open the holes with an awl, I tried that once and it just didn't work for me. There was too much bulk and forcing the grommets through didn't give me a nice clean edge, and it just took longer. So I hope this helps you with any future grommet projects, this method works best for me.

1912 Corset pattern - finished

2012-02-23T13:42:00.000-05:00

For now it's finished. The bias edging on the top and bottom were hand sewn and getting through the cotton canvas layer was challenging. The canvas was difficult to get a needle through, so don't try this at home.

I have some options for trimming the top, but the more I look at it, the more I think I will leave it plain. I can always go back and add things to it later.... I really like the idea of black beading, or a black lace overlay.

The cord used for the lacing on the back was from my stash, so it's a little shorter than needed. I'll put the double faced satin ribbon on my list of "difficult notions to find locally". You will see this again as I add the layers to the 1912 Titanic outfit.

I've also decided not to add the garters, so I'm veering away from the historically accurate version. I have to say, if you are making a first corset or a third, this really is a good experience. My first was the Civil War era corset from Butterick, which was good but didn't have a muslin, or the explanation for the required gap in the back, so it was a bit of sewing blind.

A big thank you to Jo at Bridges on the Body, I'm really pleased with the way this turned out.

1912 Corset pattern - I can't stop

2012-02-21T23:35:00.001-05:00

I've made progress, so quickly that it's surprising to me!!

What's different from the last post?
Front facing was completed with busk inserted.

Slitting the fabric was period correct for busk loop openings, but with the satin raveling like crazy, I sewed little squares and cut in the centers to slide the busk loops through.

Back facing was sewn and the grommets are added.

Grommets

Then the lacing was inserted. It's loose on the dress form waiting for the final fitting tomorrow.

I'm up to week 7, on Bridges on the Body, and making bias will be the next step.

1912 Corset pattern - construction progress

2012-02-21T15:30:00.001-05:00

Anxiety highs and lows. I didn't give much thought to how complicated a flat lined corset would be to construct, so joining the pieces were easy.

Then came the boning and that perfectionist in me started panicking. How am I going to line up the tape so that I don't have messy lines on the front? I had to sleep on it, and am happy to have that step completed.

The base fabric is the same used for the muslin, a pin striped cotton canvas.

This is the face side with the bones inserted in the casings, it looks a little wrinkled but on the body looks much better. You can see the hip fullness starting to take shape.

The red is a silk satin repurposed from a bride's maid gown.

Here are some other pics from earlier steps...
Since I was short on satin I had to piece it to make up some of the panels.

The pile of trimmings from the inside seams, the process before the casings are attached.

More to come later in the week.

In the Wee Small Hours of the Morning....

2012-02-20T12:17:00.000-05:00

I normally sleep like a rock, but last night I couldn't turn my brain off. There is so much to do, so since it's a weekend, I decided to work through it, while I did some calming prep work, and made myself a nice chamomile tea.... all the while humming Carly Simon's version of "In the Wee Small Hours of the Morning".

Managed to get the prep work done for the fabric version of the corset, so that should be the next post.

Good Night everyone!

The Traveler Lisette -Simplicity 2246 Finished

2012-02-16T06:56:00.000-05:00

I won't keep you in suspense any longer....I chose the pink.

Tada!!

This used a package of the wider double fold bias tape by Wrights (3 yards). I cut the bias tape in half to reduce the bulk, and to increase yardage. In the end it was used on both sides of the front placket.

Inside hem

Sleeve seam allowance (mock Hong Kong finish)

There were plenty of areas for pattern matching (which turned out to be a challenge).
The center front placket both on the inside and outside pieces, and of course the pocket.

The printing wasn't perfect on this fabric, it wasn't perfectly square with a slight wave to the pattern about 7" in from selvage on one side. So matching could have been a lot worse. This is something to consider if you have a project where the matching needs to be perfect, check this out on your fabric before you cut into it.

I think this is why I have mostly solids in my fabric stash.

The Traveler Lisette -Simplicity 2246 Piping and making it your own

2012-02-15T12:22:00.001-05:00

What to do next.... remember I said I didn't like the overcast seams on the sleeves, and thought about doing that differently on this version? So I wanted to incorporate a contrast color, something to spice it up a bit. Here are the color combinations I explored.

I thought brown would tie into a brown leather belt I was thinking of using as an alternative to the self made sash. The brown is a length of quilting cotton that I would have cut into bias strips.

They've been showing Neon colors in the collections for the last few years and I think that's what nudged me for these options.

Neon yellow

Neon Pink

Or maybe layering the colors...

Really the possibilities are endless. I'll surprise you with the final color selection in the next post.

So as a parting shot, this was my Traveler v.1, the one with all of the traveling pins on it. I think I had more fun shooting the photographs for this dress than anything else.

The pins have been replaced with antique brass buttons, and a leather belt. It's been worn a bit, and I'm still waiting for the fabric to soften and lose the lint catcher properties it has.

Here it is now... Traveler v1.1

The Traveler Lisette -Simplicity 2246 Invisible pockets and making it your own

2012-02-13T19:51:00.002-05:00

Just taking a break from the corset, in favor of 2012 wear for work. Yes I've done this one already but it didn't look anything like this. I bought some Liberty of London to make the pattern then chickened out. What is it about that fabric that defies cutting? (I think it's alive, and I think that's why there's so much of it on ebay, people buy it but can't cut it, so they have it in their stash forever and then sell it.... it's diabolical. For those of you who don't know what the big fuss is about, Liberty Tana Lawn is 21 British pounds = 33 US dollars, and for this project 3 yards = 99 US in fabric alone.)

The original blog post that inspired me to to make it was at purl bee blog

As soon as I saw that version I knew I needed one in a cotton lawn, so after deciding not to cut into the Liberty print, I starting hunting and came across the Anna Maria Horner prints. There was one pattern in particular I liked in a handkerchief motif called Diamond Mine. The problem was it is described as a voile on some online retailers and lawn on others. The real problem is that I had never worked with it, so didn't know what kind of quality I was working with. I finally found one at a reasonable price, it is almost a neon yellow, with bright pink and cocoa brown.

My WIP....

Now, on the first version (mid weight opaque linen) the sleeve seams were overcast and visible when it's folded in a cuff. So I wanted to change that, and this fabric is lightweight almost sheer. I will have to treat the seams differently. On this version I have the option to play and dress it up with more details.

First, I liked the hip pockets, there will be one instead of two and I want it to be invisible.

Testing with scraps, I settle on a prewashed silk dupioni to line it. Now you don't see the seam allowances from the turn under, or the print from the dress through the pocket fabric.

Even teeny tiny seam allowances need to be clipped.

To be truly invisible the pattern needs to match the front of the dress.

Since I changed the construction from the pattern...

Turn down and stitch top of the pocket (inside view).

Baste in place to topstitch.

Back to the first pic... you can almost make out the pocket from the opening.

1912 Corset pattern - first fitting

2012-02-11T21:28:00.000-05:00

Today is the day to get this corset tweaked. Yesterday, I was so excited to have something I could actually get into, that I jumped into it to see the finished result. Simply too tempting to not try on. Now back to the instructions on the "Bridges on the Body - Adding Lacing Strips and Boning"

I really jumped ahead and added the self facing to the front and cut the separate facing for the back. I thought this might be the muslin as well as the finished garment, today will determine that.... and I've determined that I will cut into the coutil instead. I'm really kicking myself at not buying more of the coutil in a nude color. At some point down the road I will have to source it again.

The gap at the center back looks more reasonable now, about 3 1/2".
There is a slight v when it's on my body vs. the dress form 1" larger at the top half. I'll be letting the top out for the 1" so that the gap is even.

The only change made on this version is taking 1/4" off each panel, and popping the boning into the side seams (DIY style).

I think I'll be shaping the hem on the front so I can sit without the corset fabric bunching up, which will be worse with a much stiffer fabric (coutil). I'm pleased with the progress though and I'll be transferring the changes to the pattern next.

BOTB - really goes into great detail about what considerations (and unintended consequences) need to be taken into account for end use comfort. These things take time, and thought, and moving around in the garment, and role playing (not really just testing if you were paying attention). Since I already have a chemise to wear under the corset, fitting will include that going forward.

Lacing has been a bit of a challenge, I'm looking forward to have that front busk in so I don't have to play Gumby and reach around to tighten the laces.

More tomorrow...

1912 Corset pattern - The muslin

2012-02-11T08:15:00.002-05:00

There is time for a few more steps before the busk and bones arrive. Like cutting out the muslin version of the corset out. This is a Marc Jacobs cotton canvas purchased last year, the pin stripes will be good reference points for construction and following grainlines exactly.

Following the Bridges on the Body blog....
Add 1" seam allowance to all pieces except center back.... I also skipped ahead and added the facings.

It is surprisingly comfortable to wear. It allows me to sit, but not slouch, it really is an excellent pattern.

It's tough to see from these photos on the dress form, but it is a good fit.

Tweaking will be minimal. I have identified a few places where I have to shave off some width, but I like the shape it has, so I'll be taking all of the seams in about 1/4", which should give me that distance I need for the lacing to spread a bit. I'll be spending the day, getting this right, getting in and out at my leisure, and taking time with it. There's a bit more to consider before the coutil comes out.

I'm glad to go through this extra step, as it will make the final a little easier.

Another bias slip....V2978

2012-02-09T23:04:00.000-05:00

I have planned a few shirt dresses this year and just want the flexibility of not "having" to line them if I don't want to. This is part of an OOP Donna Karan Vogue pattern V2978 (this is the slip to the dress pattern) also cut on the bias, with darts instead of seaming. I've noticed that Vogue repeats this same slip pattern in other pattern numbers so I thought I would give it a test run. It's simpler, only 2 body pieces instead of the 6 on the Folkwear pattern (not including straps and lace edging).

Here is the flat sketch

If it were made in a heavier silk, it might be a nice little slip dress.

You can just about make out the hand stitching on the bias binding...

Narrow hem and french seam

Narrow hem in progress.

Bias binding..

This is 100% silk crepe de chine, it's lighter in color than the other slip and it will be a welcome slip for a few white silk fabrics that are in the queue.

Tomorrow I resume work on the corset, cutting out the muslin is the next step, and I might be able to sew it together, but the busk and bones need to hurry up and get here, to move on....

Basic Skin Tone Bias Slip

2012-02-08T18:17:00.000-05:00

This may not be everyone's cup of tea since there no color to it, and it looks very plain.... however, if you cut the rosettes off of underwear because they show through slinky fabrics, and kick yourself for ignoring the "plain cousin" in favor of those brightly colored lace embedded slips, only to find you are limited to what you can wear with them.... then you might find some usefulness to this plain little slip. It doesn't knock you over the head with it's brilliance but you can wear it under practically everything.

Project pics....
Silk crepe has a lovely drape and is very fluid, but it's a bear to work with. You really need to take your time and cut precisely, and don't get discouraged if after taking all that time you still end up with a few areas that don't meet, take a deep breath, go back and trim them.

Match your side seams...

You need a few good tools to help you along the way, very sharp scissors and fine sharp silk pins.

Don't be afraid to try new techniques like overlapped seams...

This is a Folkwear pattern, Intimacies #219, the same pattern that featured the tap pants from a few posts ago.

1912 Corset pattern - tip for measuring yourself.

2012-02-07T13:27:00.000-05:00

I separated the pattern pieces for the 1911 corset, only to have to join them again to draw in the lines that will be used later to split and grade up for size. So if you are making it, don't separate them. If you do, it's no tragedy, you can tape them back up and continue.

Next step is ....Measuring yourself. If you want to follow along it's this post "Measuring" on Bridges on the Body blog.
Having a sewing buddy is not always feasible, so for those of us who have to measure ourselves, I hope this might help you in the future. For the measurements around the body, I take a length of 3/8" elastic and tie them at the levels I need to take the measurements.

The first was at the waist, for this project the instruction was to find the point at which you bend, and that becomes the waist, so that was the first elastic.

Two other measurements further down so two more pieces of elastic.

Then I measured and placed them at the 6 1/2" and 9 1/2" points and straightened as best I could in front of a mirror until they were straight.

Once you have the elastic around the body you can make adjustments and move them to where they should be straightening out as you go along.

Then using your measuring tape take the measurements.
Voila!! My corset measurements.

I'm not this slanted in real life, this is what happens when you try keep your camera out of another bad bathroom pic :)

Then following along to the slashing and spreading the pattern (which gets us closer to our sizes) and instructions on this post at 1911 Corset sew along.

Finishing seamlines

Remarkably, she's right, the final hip measurement will be about an inch off (too large for me) and can be dealt with by taking up a hair at each hip seam.

Final pattern pieces for version 1.

She does a really lovely job of the step by step instruction without overwhelming you with information, so if you've ever wanted to make a project like this, I highly recommend her sew along!!

The pattern has been sized for a first attempt, so cutting will be later in the day. Then the project will be put aside until the missing corset supplies arrive. In the meantime, I have a lacing strip for the muslin version, and construction notions have been put in a box to keep my supplies organized waiting for the next pieces to fall into place.

Possible candidate for the muslin (or finished project), olive pin striped canvas.

1912 and sew it begins

2012-02-06T11:55:00.002-05:00

We have determined that this silhouette would not be in line with the fashions of 1912. Too much of a waist curve.

When it should be more like this...

Bridges on the Body blog, has a 1911 sew along, complete with pattern and instructions for alterations. It's worth checking out if you are interested in the Titanic era corset costumes. The sew along started at the beginning of the year, but since I've made these before, I'm hoping to play catch up.

I have enlarged the pattern (at Office Depot 278%) so far, and have used my very sophisticated light box to overlap and paste the pattern pieces together.

Now that the pattern pieces have been joined, I'll be scaling them up to my size.

I won't be working on this exclusively, still have other projects to wear in 2012 that I need to get to, so this will be intermingled in my posts as I work on it.

The Traditional Tap Pant

2012-02-02T09:53:00.000-05:00

These are from the Folkwear pattern company, number 219, Intimacies.
They are inspired by 1920's- 1930's lingerie. Silk Crepe de Chine with side snap placket.
They are very comfortable and the ease around the leg opening is more moderate than the HP pair.

I love the side placket, and they aren't bulky at all. A nice neutral color good for a first attempt. I will be wearing these and assessing them for comfort.

Despite a most loved vintage machine leaving oil on them, and being generally uncooperative (skipped stitches, and feed dog issues), I am most satisfied with the way the stitching turned out. It is for the most part pucker free and doesn't look strangled.

100 Year Anniversary of the Sinking of the Titanic

2012-01-30T11:35:00.000-05:00

Images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art NYC

I've chosen to participate in the Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 project (a mouthful, I know!!). Here's an excerpt from the project.

" Welcome to the Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Titanic Sewing Project!
With the upcoming 100-year anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, there seems no better time to be motivated to tackle one of the Vintage Pattern Lending Library’s archives largest projects. The scanning and digitizing of the patterns and magazines of La Mode Illustree – once France’s foremost publication of fashion of the era.

We have 345 Test Sewers that have volunteered to sew patterns that probably haven’t fit living people for 80 years to document what they did and give results. The pattern packages will be downloadable pattern sheets, a translation into English of any construction information, and a graphic of the garment.

Construction and cutting information for these patterns are very vague, usually amounting to only a paragraph or two. These patterns come from a different era without all the luxuries that we have come to rely on. They may have no instructions and no markings."

Here are some samples of the patterns they will issue for the project. VPLL

Maybe now I can clear out some of those home dec fabrics, and laces that are languishing in the stash.

Hotpatterns Cupid Cami & Tap pant

2012-01-28T18:58:00.000-05:00

It seems like I have Valentine's Day on the brain! There is a free pattern available on Fabric.com from Hotpatterns for a Camisole and Tap pant. The scalloped edge camisole made in the previous post needs bottoms, since I'm using them as sleepwear now. As always whenever I start out making muslins I end up actually wearing them.

I like the proportions with the camisole.

Here is the link to the PDF pattern download Hotpatterns on Fabric.com

As per usual, you will need to know sizing, which is not included.

The pattern itself is 25 pages, so have the printer loaded before you start.

Notes:
1) Separate pages into groups
a) Instructions - numbered 6,12,18

b) Front cami & short - 1,2,3,4,5
7,8,9,10,11

c) Back cami & short - 13,14,15,16,17
19,20,21,22,23

It's easier to group them and assemble them like this, since only the waistband piece and a small triangle of the back waist overlaps the two groups. You can trim the waistband piece off the end later and the small triangle this allows you only have to look for a surface that fits 10 taped pages instead of 20.

And if you are a visual learner....

Here are the two sections.

The areas that overlap.

The taped pieces...

2) For the camisole, there is no pattern piece for the bias binding, the instructions tell you to gather enough 1 1/2" strips to finish the front, back neckline and armhole ties.

3) The yardage requirement is specified at 2 1/4 yards of 60" (1 1/4 yd for cami and 1 yard for the pant)

4) Elastic is 1/2" wide and long enough to circle the waist

They are very full, I would recommend something very thin and with some drape. Without the narrow hem at the bottom they fall about mid thigh on me.

I don't think I'll be making them again, they aren't really practical for me, but the set is cute together. At least now I am ready for Valentines day!!

Thank you to everyone that participated in the pattern giveaway, you should all have either received or will be receiving them shortly. If you do make up the pattern be sure and drop me a line, I'd love to see what you've done with them. If not, no pressure, I know how busy things can get and how sometimes we turn into collectors because of it. It's all good.

This year I'll be including more giveaways. I'm organizing my sewing room (yet again) and I'm sure to find things that want new surroundings. So stay tuned.

The Camisole project

2012-01-22T01:29:00.000-05:00

There is a sewing blog from New Zealand that sponsored a lingerie sew along in December and I missed it preparing for the holidays. You might have missed it as well, so head on over and have a peek at some pretty wonderful renditions of this pattern. Her name is Sherry, and she's a pattern maker who shares her knowledge. She's a great resource if you want to stretch your skills and she has a few tutorials to follow as well.

Buzzybeesworld

The pattern is based on a "B" cup, like most of the pattern companies, so I needed a few rounds to make it my own. I'm pretty pleased at the results.

This looks better on the body.

And the winners are.... drumroll please!

2012-01-14T11:07:00.011-05:00

The names were drawn out of a hat (however else would I end up with so many "A"s on the list).

~~Pattern no. 1 - Angela~~
~~Pattern no. 2 - Angie~~
~~Pattern no. 3 - Leslie V~~
~~Pattern no. 4 - Ruta~~
~~Pattern no. 5 - Ty~~
~~Pattern no. 6 - Sewfast~~
~~Pattern no. 7 - Mary~~

Just shoot me an email using the contact information on my profile, and let me know where to send the pattern. If this doesn't work, just send me a comment with your email address or with the shipping instructions. Since moderation is turned on, it won't post to the blog and I'll contact you that way.

If I don't hear from you by Saturday 21st of January, I'll move onto the next name on the draw.
So far only two patterns remain unclaimed, so there may still be a chance for someone else to win.

I'll be striking off those people who have contacted me, mostly to keep track myself, so try to contact me before the end of the week. 2012 is all about moving on ;)

I'm going through my fabric now, and might just have a fabric giveaway next, I know, I can always use them for muslins, but some of it is just to good for that and the colors might look better on you. I have at least 3 more giveaways to catch up to my blogaversaries:)

Getting the sewing room organized this year is taking away from sewing time, but I'll be up and posting again soon.

Thanks for participating!

Giveaway 2012

2012-01-08T13:13:00.001-05:00

Just realized I've never had a giveaway and several blog anniversaries have come and gone (bad blogger). These are just a few of the offerings. We'll pick a random winner on Sunday the 15th, just let me know which one you're interested in and leave the number in the comment.

1) Vogue 2783 DKNY dress sizes 18-22

2) Vogue 1224 Tracy Reese sizes 16-24

3) Vogue 1250 DKNY sizes 14-20

4) Vogue 1239 Chado Ralph Rucci sizes 14-20

5)Kwik Sew 3167 sizes XS - L

6) McCalls 5661 Palmer Pletsch sizes 8-14

7) Hot Patterns HP1091 Marrakesh pant sizes 6-26

Happy New Year!!

Happy 2012

2012-01-03T14:29:00.000-05:00

I hope everyone has washed off 2011 and are brightly looking forward to 2012.

My latest obsession is the black coat that Sandra Bullock wore on "The Proposal" movie. I thought it was a dress but it seems it was a coat. Tailored but feminine and black because I still love it for it's thinning properties.

It could be a dress though...and Meryl Streep wore it, Donna Karan designed it.

Doesn't it look fabulous on Meryl? This might be one of the rare instances where a garment looks better on a real person. Yay!!

courtesy of Style.com Donna Karan Resort 2012

What if you didn't have outside influences?

2011-11-12T19:36:00.001-05:00

What would happen if you stopped snoop shopping online, turned off the TV and just sat with a piece of paper and a pencil and thought about how you live? I know when I start sewing a new project, it either starts with something I've seen that I want to make for myself, or an actual pattern, but what if it were the other way around. What if we first determined what we needed and then looked for it, or drafted it and designed it. What if we picked the fabric in our minds and hunted until we found it, instead of seeing what's available and working with "whatever" that is. How much different would our wardrobes look, or our homes for that matter.... if we stop "buying" what is sold to us, and instead seek what we need.

Demystifying Fabric Shopping in Miami - Isa Couture Fabrics

2011-06-28T12:22:00.002-04:00

Miami covers a large territory, and many of the fabric stores have closed but there are a few left. If you are in South Beach, it's a quick trip to downtown Miami where you will find an abundance of stores that carry couture fabrics as well as spandex galore.

This is one of my favorite stores in Miami, they carry Couture fabrics (cotton, wool, laces, silk), trims and buttons as well as some moderately priced fabrics. They have a bilingual staff, so you won't have trouble communicating, and the store is enormous. They established Isa in 1962, and the neighborhood has changed around them, it is not the most inviting, there is street parking, so bring your quarters. I've been there and have had no issues but this is the destination, it's not the place where you want to park your car and walk around looking for a place to eat, it's in and out. Although it doesn't look very large from the outside, it is two stories, they have an elevator to take you upstairs where the fabric is on display.

Isa Couture Fabrics

If you have a special project, or need to do color matching the staff is really helpful without being pushy.
This is the one I recommend if you have to prioritize your shopping in Miami.

NY the last post....

2011-06-25T08:03:00.050-04:00

My Garment district visit is covered two posts ago, it is by no means complete, there are more fabric stores than those I have listed. I didn't get to Mood or Metro, because I really wanted to stick to the budget and I found everything I needed....so I'll continue to the next section of NY which was down to Tea and Sympathy to get my tea.

3:29 This is a tiny tiny place, composed of three fronts, A Salt and Battery (Fish and Chips), Carry On Tea & Sympathy (British Store), Tea & Sympathy (Restaurant), by the time I arrived I wasn't hungry enough to eat at the restaurant so I just picked up some tea and left, but it's cute no?

4:20 Back onto the subway and down to Purl Soho (where I forgot to take a pic, but you can click on the link to the website). The online store is so chock full of ideas I thought the place would be brimming with people, but it was a work day and I suspect even crafters work for a living. I think for a knitter you would never leave, presentation is number one here, they offer a nice selection of fine, unusual yarns, many many Japanese books on knitting and crochet. They have fat quarters of Liberty fabric, and assortments of quilting fabrics neatly bundled on the shelves. It's a cute little store and I went with the idea of getting a Sashiko starter kit.

I'm thinking more and more about embellishment, and I have a few cuts of solid fabric that I would like to make up as my blank canvas and apply a Sashiko design on them. The wee girl behind the counter asked me if I had taken the class, and I said no, so she said I could call with any questions. I told her I would call if the project reduced me to tears, and she seemed distraught by this and told me, please don't cry we don't do well with people who are crying :) she was very cute.

If you are looking for ideas for mini projects have a look at the Purl Bee Blog, it's adorable.

4:30 - So right about now, I am thirsty and hungry. So far I've had my two eggs and a protein shake in the garment district I'm due for a meal. It's late and I take a stroll to Balthazars to have a late lunch. I've been dieting so I tried not to eat all of the Bearnaise sauce but it was so good, the frites kept jumping in.... I blame the potatoes.

5:09 - On my way to catch the subway at Prince Street - I pop into Dean and Deluca, because I'm already thinking about breakfast:), more tea, some cheese straws, and a raspberry almond croissant for tomorrow morning. All in all a most productive day, and I am stocked with enough tea to cover me for the next two months. Maybe I should make reservations for August in case I run out of supplies again :) I thought I saw everything I wanted to see when I run into a banner for the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibit at the Cooper Hewitt (91st & 5th, right around the corner from the Metropolitan Museum of Art).
A day just isn't enough!

and some parting shots of NY....

Times Square

Roy Lichtenstein Times Square underground

Passing Subway

It's a lot to do in one day, it helps to familiarize yourself with all of the subway/bus routes, as well as the store websites before you go. I love the internet, it was invaluable in planning the trip. I made up my lists before I went and stuck to the plan.

I checked the weather report before I left and it called for thunderstorms, I wore a trench coat and took an umbrella and it didn't rain a drop all day, so I was roasting. It was a good thing I took a large bag with me to bring all of my fabrics safely home, and that I opted to wear a linen tunic instead of a t-shirt, so I was either wet or drying off. Once I arrived in Laguardia the skies opened and flights were cancelled and delayed (my flight included). I left my house at 3:30 - and returned at 12:30, the kitty was most happy to see me.

Now to start sewing again!!

My 10 hours in NY....

2011-06-24T07:00:00.004-04:00

3:00 Wake & dress... I had decided not to eat or have coffee until I made it to the Museum
3:30 Leave the house
5:05 The plane takes off..

7:50 I buy my 7 day unlimited Metro card for $29.00, I catch the bus to the subway
9:17 I need coffee, and I'm hungry, so I head to Le Pain Quotidien.

I love this place they have a long communal table and it's big enough where you don't feel cramped. The chairs are small but the place is cozy and the regulars pull out their papers and have yogurt and fruit parfaits.
You can read more about the restaurant here Le Pain Quotidien. I had the soft boiled eggs that come with a freshly baked bread assortment. There are jellies and a Belgian praline spread on the table for you, as well as agave, and natural sugar. They have a variety of seasonal offerings and daily specials and it all looks so good.

Isn't funny how when you're starving your taste buds are so appreciative. This was an excellent breakfast, simple and satisfying.

9:46 "Alexander McQueen" - I'm on my way to the Museum, I can't show you pics because they were not allowed, but I have to say this was a fabulous exhibit. If you can't get there visit online, the Metropolitan Museum's blog will walk you through the exhibit, if they've skipped something, it's very little. I've visited the museum for past exhibits and I love the Met, but there was one, that was a bit of a dud, and when you travel in from outside of the city to see it... disappointing does not cover it. This one was not disappointing. There is a bit of a line, I bought my ticket and audio tape online and this might save you a little time if there are lines for the tickets. Once you reach the exhibit, it is cordoned off and there are two lines, one for Members of the Met, and the other for non-member ticket holders. The Members are whisked straight into the exhibit, while the rest of us wait. Since I had arrived 15 minutes after the museum opened I was in a good position, the wait for Wednesday morning, was only 15 minutes, when I left, it was much longer. There is a lot to see, it is a series of adjoining rooms and the garments and items are arranged on both sides, so if you stick to one side of the room, you'll need to pass through to the other side to see everything. I read everything and observe construction details, and take a little Moleskine where I keep design ideas. It took me almost 2 hours to get through it all. It is visually lush, a little disturbing at times but in the end very inspiring.

I also had time to have a look at another special showing of "Rooms With a View" , if you like miniatures or dollhouses I highly recommend it. I love both, and it was such a treat. Many of the paintings are relatively small, with so much fine detail you could get lost in each room.

Bonus** If you opt for the audio guide, you can start listening to the McQueen snippets while you are waiting.
The McQueen introduction starts at 400. Also the audio guide is good for the rest of the museum as well.

12:19 After seeing the Alexander McQueen exhibit, I'm a little sad, he was really an artist first, a designer second. I am sorry we won't be seeing more of him.... so to cheer myself up I hopped on the bus and stopped at Bergdorf Goodman.

They were having a sale, a big sale, a shoe sale, so I was on my way to the top, towards the home goods department, when I realized that I had passed the Ralph Rucci area and I zipped back down to have a look at his clothes. He uses the same sleeve as on the Vogue 1115 pattern on one of his coats. It was all beautiful.

Also just a side note... there was a young lady on the escalator in front of me wearing a light flowing silk tunic and I was appreciating the fabric and style when a gust from the AC, which revealed no undergarments, blew her tunic enough, not to lift but inflate....all I'm saying is wear under pants. The tunic was a little over the knee but the hem width was about 80" and it was not good.

Are you tired yet? I left Bergdorfs because with a shoe sale, no good could come of it, so I hopped on the subway and down to the Garment District I went....

NYC Fabric and Notions Paron, Steinlauf & Stoller, Pacific Trimmings

2011-06-23T12:47:00.000-04:00

From Paron, I was able to achieve color matching for the floral silk satin in the stash,

and I found a coordinating fabric for another silk.

both of these fabrics were in the Annex. Since I came with the fabrics I was working on, I pulled out the full cuts and walked around with Mercedes (my hostess), and we pulled out bolts. She was very helpful and had creative disagreements about some of the colors but it was all in good fun.

They were out of Burda Magazine, so no luck there.

Onto Steinlauf & Stoller...

2" Ban Roll, tailor's thimble, French Curve, 1" plush elastic, plush underwire casing.

I wanted to pick up the Wing needles here but they didn't have them, this has been on my list for over a year now, I have never seen one on sale in person. There's an ebay source which I may try when I'm ready to do some hemstitching.

They have practically everything for the industry in here, and it's a busy shop, but it would be best to take a look at their online catalog and make up your list. They have very little on display, so you need to ask them, and off they run to the back. I did manage to see unwire chaneling and plush elastic which I left with.

Pacific Trimming
Petersham Ribbon & Grosgrain (this should tie me over for a while)

Zippers.... with polished chrome, copper, multicolor, gold finishes, fine teeth, fabulous sliders and ombre tape. I was actually sorry that I didn't have more projects requiring zippers, so I just dipped my toe in with 3.

So I finally have an assortment of buckles for the jacket that has been patiently waiting. Zippers to give me inspiration, and zipper pulls.

A parting shot of the RIRI zipper...

Tomorrow a mini slideshow including food :)

Strategy... chopping up the city

2011-06-21T08:09:00.001-04:00

I'm dividing the city up in three areas - Upper East side, Garment District, Soho

Number 1 priority is the show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Number 2 Bergdorf Goodman for some snoop shopping.
Then the garment district....

Parons
Steinlauf Stoller
Mood
MJ Trim (if I don't find what I need at Pacific)
Pacific Trim

View Larger Map

I also have some non sewing stops like Tea & Sympathy (to get some Irish tea),
and I'll finish up with Purl Soho, because I love their website, and am very curious about what they have.

I've printed off some enlarged Google Maps (I love Google) and am gathering all of the items that need to go with me. I'll have 10 hours in the city, so it will be a marathon day, I've also abandoned any attempt at dressing in cute clothes and it will have to be Jeans t-shirt and Merrells for the entire journey:)

I'll be ok with whatever doesn't get done, this is an ambitious plan, that I am really looking forward to.
I just realized that I haven't scheduled lunch....Oy.

The Manhattan project

2011-06-20T12:35:00.000-04:00

I need to just see what I am buying in person. I love the convenience of buying online but shipping is a killer, and if you don't receive what you can use, return shipping is sometimes enough to end up keeping what I've ordered.

The plan is a day in NYC.

My shopping list....

Burda or Patrones magazine

Leather buckles for trench coats (for 1 belt and 2 shoulder epaulettes)
Buckle for a finished belt

tailor's thimble
Wing needle Schmetz 130/705H
Double wing needle 130/705H
Long Glass Headed pins
DMC Broder Machine size 50 or Madeira Tanne size 50 or Mettler Article 240 60/2 - in White, Black, Beige

french curve 1

snap tape (bodysuit crotch) spacing 3/4" 4 yards

picot edge elastic - white 10 yards, black 5 yards

Color matching for..
1) Handprinted silk crepe - silk crepe or charmeuse royal blue or rose 1 1/2 yds
2) Printed Floral silk - silk charmeuse 1 1/2 yards crimson red
3) Petersham Ribbon - Seersucker skirt project White or Tan 5 yards 1"
4) Long Staple cotton jersey fine opaque - white or black - 2 yards

Wicking lining fabric for running shorts - red (1 yd), blue (1 yd) or neutral or lt grey (2 yds)

and it doesn't hurt that there's an Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Vogue 1115 CRR Rain Poncho

2011-05-21T18:06:00.001-04:00

I don't want anyone from Chado Ralph Rucci emailing me to say this is not the intended purpose of this pattern :). For a wearable muslin, I really like it.

It took an estimated 30 hours from pattern tracing to finish without the welt pockets, and countless pin pricks because of the stubborn fabric.

I really love the seaming details, and will leave the zipper off, the next time I make it.

I really like this sleeve...

Almost looks alien like...

This was a very interesting project, so I'm going to work on something simpler next.

Thank you Mr Rucci!!

Work in Progress..... Vogue 1115

2011-05-20T17:00:00.001-04:00

Still have some things to do to finish, hems, welt pockets, and hook and eyes.
I love the side view of the sleeves, it reminds me a little of Alexander McQueen, or a futuristic Kimono.
I hope Chado Ralph Rucci continues to produce Vogue patterns, this was a lot of fun to make despite the hours and the burn out I'm experiencing from it.

A little zen sewing....

2011-05-20T12:43:00.000-04:00

Vogue Advanced, they aren't kidding, this is just a little teaser of the project I'm working on now. Hopefully it will be completed tomorrow, and then I'm going to need an hour of yoga to get the cricks out of my neck and back :)

Getting to know your projects...

2011-05-17T23:28:00.000-04:00

New pattern, new fabric, sewing is a little like cooking, the ingredients change just a little bit everytime. I personally always slow down if I have to cut interfacing or lining. Maybe it's just because those are usually from pieces that have already been cut, and I'm just looking for enough of both to cut out exactly what I need. Interfacing is in one bin, and it's folded but seeing that raggedy edge, then ironing and hunting down the grainlines just turns me off. So I'm often giddy when it's all cut and ready to go.

(I would be giddy if I had thread to start this project)

Then there is percentage stretch in knits, or woven spandex blend fabrics which always surprise me. For those fabrics that are a mystery, doing the burn test to determine fiber content.

Rainwear and technical fabrics, determining right sides, wicking sides, waterproof sides.

(Sometimes you have to let it sit a while)

There are so many variables when embarking on a new project, I would like to know if when we choose a pattern, fabric, interfacing, notions, and we iron, layout, pin, cut, assemble, do finishing handwork, and give it a final press what our brains look like. Do our synapse fire like a concert violinists? What happens to our brains when we are engaged in this activity, I'm willing to bet it's beneficial (even with a wadder).

Morning Show clip (knitting is good for the brain, I bet sewing is too!)

I'm working on two projects concurrently, one which is a little unconventional that I am hoping will work well, and maybe be finished by Thursday/Friday... we will all be surprised.

Butterick 4789 again...

2011-05-16T21:16:00.001-04:00

I found a yard of slubby rayon knit from a previous dress pattern and decided it needed to be a little twist front t-shirt. This jersey doesn't have the recovery the other jersey had but, it didn't seem to matter for this pattern.

The back has a v neckline, and waist darts.

This had a turn and stitch treatment instead of the slip stitch on the other version. If you look closely you can even see the basting stitches.

Vintage Vogue 1911 YSL Cargo pants

2011-04-22T20:59:00.001-04:00

Remember that pattern I was after on ebay?
Here it is made up, this is the wearable muslin version and I am over the moon with them. They are a light cotton twill perfect for summer, loads of topstitching, loads of pockets and a rise that is perfect for me.

These pants are interesting, they have a relatively slim leg, a seam across the top thigh, and there is ease built in through that seam. I love the scale and shape of the pockets.

Now I'll be on the lookout for better fabric for this project... the fabric used here was a light cotton twill and Kaffe Fasset quilting cotton - for the pocket linings.

Mini Storage project - Repurposed Wood Wine Boxes

2011-04-19T15:02:00.000-04:00

Ever need just a drawer for storage? Tax time meant purging paperwork, and then continued to purging in general. I have an open wall unit, and thought an open bin might be a good idea when a light bulb went off and I repurposed some wine boxes to keep my DVD's organized.

What you need...
1 - empty wooden wine box
1 - can of Krylon crystal clear acrylic coating
1 - bottle of rubber cement with application brush
1 - yard of felt

All four outer sides were sprayed with the clear acrylic.
Felt was marked for the bottoms.

Rubber cement was applied to the bottom, and the felt was applied.

After 10 minutes, the felt was trimmed to fit.

Loaded with DVD's

Pushed into the wall unit.

The sizes aren't standard, some are shallower, others deeper, you can find them at liquor stores in your area.
Some will give them to you free, others will charge a fee. Supplies to make 4 ran about $15.00. Some boxes come with slide in tops, others are nailed flush to the top.... just things to keep in mind when you look at them.

Vogue 1247 - The tiny skirt expanded

2011-04-04T22:43:00.002-04:00

This is one of the newest releases from Vogue, #1247, from Rachel Comey. I liked the skirt but the pattern envelope did a good job of downplaying the tiny quality of this skirt (it is 17"). It calls for one yard of 60" fabric and even after adding 6" to the bottom of the skirt I used 38", so it's great if you only have a yard (and a bit) of bottom weight fabric. This is rated as average, the instructions use a hong kong finish on all of the seam allowances, for my wearable muslin, they are serged.

It comes together pretty quickly, in a day (without the hong kong finish), however I could have added 8" instead of the 6". The original skirt calls for a 2" hem, and even after adding to the length I could only take 5/8".

I like how the skirt hangs, it isn't smooth across the pockets, partly because the darts on the yoke end almost at the top of the pocket edge, so it's a curve meeting a straight flat folded area. I might try making the skirt again manipulating the pattern a bit and removing the dart on the yoke. All in all an interesting skirt pattern.

Here is the top from the same pattern if you want to see the entire outfit. Vogue 1247 top.

Denim skirt Simplicity 2451 View C

2011-04-03T16:57:00.000-04:00

Hey wait a minute didn't she already sew this pattern??? Yes but a different view, this is View C, it has the same waist yoke and pockets, but instead of gore pieces, the front is one piece with pleats and the back has a small vent at the hem. The fabric is a stretch denim from Joann's (leftover from the dark wash jeans), very comfy.

I added a front stay to keep the pleats from popping open, it was drafted from the original pattern.

It was cut out of a rayon faille lining fabric and popped in before the pockets.

Here's the view from the back

Front

Mini Wardrobe Finished

2011-03-31T13:17:00.000-04:00

I'm a little under the weather, and totally forgot to post my composite for the mini wardrobe I have been working on. Now I really just have to pick a jacket and skirt and I'll be almost finished with the 10 essential pieces wardrobe.

Obsessed again..... Fabric APB

2011-03-29T09:16:00.000-04:00

This is an All Points Bulletin....or BOLO Be On the Look Out!!

While I was gone, I saw this fabric.... sigh, I've never been drawn to butterfly prints before but I MUST HAVE THIS.

It's a silk twill, similar to what is used in scarves, it's lightweight, opaque, and the fabric floats around you. From what I understand it's an Italian import.... This dress, is not the one I saw but the first image that used the print online. It's from a designer whose name is Lyn Devon, I had never heard of her before I laid my eyes on this print, but her collections are featured on Style.com. There is another dress that I also find intriguing.... hmmm maybe when I finish making really practical dresses, I'll jump into the "pretty" projects.

Oh yes, and I forgot this one that makes me think of a matador costume for some reason...

I have a problem... I can't stop sewing...

2011-03-20T16:41:00.000-04:00

or thinking about sewing, or fabric, or patterns....I need to clean the house again, and I have to do my taxes, and all I can think about is that pattern I won off ebay that's sitting on the dining room table. So as I run around the house emptying the garbage cans, and cleaning bathrooms, I make a point of passing it. I need to decide which "bundle fabric" I can use to test it. It's a YSL Cargo pant, and if it looks good on me, it will make some great summer pants.... and if it doesn't I can "borrow" the pocket pattern for a skirt or another pair of pants. I really like the scale, and shape of the pocket.... and then there are the top patterns that are included that will be nice summer shirts...

Hopefully the house will be clean soon and I can dive right in tonight :)

Vogue 1159 Donna Karan puzzle dress

2011-03-19T22:34:00.000-04:00

If you are looking for a pattern that will make you doubt that you are good at puzzles this is it. There is not a lot of sewing but the construction is tricky. I had to make a few adjustments, since the pattern calls for 2 way stretch, and I used a lightweight rayon spandex with minimal lengthwise stretch.

Made from a lightweight Rayon Spandex.

It is very sexy, and also very comfortable, lined from the waist down, but is so sheer I still need spanx to avoid that naked look, that comes from flash bulbs and thin fabric.

Happy St Patrick's day!!

2011-03-17T15:33:00.000-04:00

May joy and peace surround you,

Contentment latch your door,

And happiness be with you now

And bless you evermore.

Vogue 1180 - Trench coat.... a Flat Fell practice garment

2011-03-16T21:47:00.001-04:00

This project is relatively simple, the challenge was finding enough space to cut it out. It is 1 1/2 sofas long and 60" wide. I had wanted to practice Hong Kong seams until I realized that there are few seams here and they are all flat felled.... and it would leave me with the challenge of finishing off the edges, which are all just turned under and top stitched. Have you ever sewn while holding your breath? That's what this project was like, being careful to keep the edgestitching from falling over the edge, and the stitch lines parallel to each other. My machine only has space for a 1/8" double needle and mine was closer to 3/8".

If you are working with raincoat fabric, when you are finished cutting out the garment, take a few scraps and try to iron them. Even practice the seam finishes on the scraps and iron them. You may get some permanent shine on the fabric. I used a pressing cloth and tried not to press down too hard. This fabric is like a tafetta, it's Technical Nylon faille that I purchased from FabricMartfabrics.com last year. It is perfect for this project, it is very stiff, so you can mold the collar in any position and it stays for a bit.

Challenges are as follows...
- the instructions are easy to follow except for the upper collar. It's not easy to get the collar points at the same angle and reduce the bulk at the corner, especially when the collar is only 1 piece and not underlined in any way, so you have to know how to do a mitre corner to ensure a clean collar point.... and the fabric unravels easily.

You might want to practice the corners on the scrap fabric as well. I did two collars, and contemplated cutting the same piece out of silk organza to treat it like any other typical collar but in the end decided, to finish it as the pattern recommends. Since silk organza really isn't waterproof.

If you do decide to finish the collar with another collar piece, you need to be aware of the seam at the neck which is turned and topstitched so doubling up the bulk at the neck seam might leave it a little bulkier than you might find acceptable.

- long stretches of edge stitch and top stitch
- working with rainwear
- Using a sharp or Microtex needle and topstitching thread

Am really happy with the results!!
It looks as good on the inside as the outside....

Topstitching a trench....

2011-03-14T18:41:00.000-04:00

This is just a tease shot of the trench coat topstitching, it took some doing but with a Microtex needle and Gutterman buttonhole thread, I'm pretty please with the result I'm getting...

This pattern is only 7 pieces, The body is only 2 pieces, 2 piece sleeves and a collar.

I have finished only the cutting and marking and the first seam. You'll notice even though the fabric is stiff, it benefits from being cut on the bias.

Simplicity 2339 Finished

2011-03-13T11:01:00.000-04:00

TaDa!! I like this shirt, it's cute, and cool, and of course since I started cutting to finish, the temperatures have dropped outside. No project is complete without some mischief.... and for this shirt...

It was the buttonholer that left me a little reminder that it's been working too hard and needs to be cleaned. It left me a little smudgy present, so this puppy will be cleaned today.

The summer trench is still sitting on my cutting table, uncut of course, I'm not excited about cutting it out, with my favorite scissors out of commission. So I need to make a decision on what project to do next, especially since St. Patrick's Day is this week, and I have some lovely silk with pale green shamrocks embroidered on it. It had been the dress I wore to my brother's wedding, and I have never been able to part with it, I just love it!!

I don't have a lot of this fabric, so it will no doubt be a pieced project. Or I could just make another shirt!!

Simplicity 2339 White Shirt and button selection

2011-03-12T16:21:00.000-05:00

This shirt told me it wants silver colored buttons. So I went through the button stash to look for silver buttons and here's what I found...

ok, not silver but still a possibility....

I think the smaller square buttons are going to be the ones... it picks up the square weave design in the fabric better than any of the others.

You can see that little weave in this pic.

This was a good pattern, one of the few that did not have excess sleeve cap ease. This will be a nice cool summer shirt, not fashion forward but very "neat". I do have to say this for it, there is ease in the body, and the way it is constructed, there is a lot of shaping, waist darts (front & back), bust dart, yoke seams. This is one of the few shirts in my wardrobe that does not strain over the bust. There is ease where it is needed.
It's also one of the "Amazing Fit" series from Simplicity, so it gives you pattern pieces for different cup sizes.

What it really needs now is a good pressing, and finishing.

Vogue 1180 - LBBD - Little Black Bias Dress

2011-03-10T19:20:00.004-05:00

This is my first LBD, it's a little shorter than I would have liked, but I really like it with the scarf. Since the dress is cut on the bias this was one project that was cut on the floor. It's a mid weight linen, lined with black acetate, it has lingerie straps, and the neckline & armhole was understitched with a pick stitch.

If you wear it without the lingerie stays it tends to ride forward, and creates a pleat width wise in the small of the back and cups the bottom.

With the lingerie stays connected...

I love the way that the neckline and armhole cover everything beneath, and it is a flattering neckline. It also hangs well, but for the next variation, I will be adding some length and possibly removing some width from the back or reshaping the side seams a bit. The other thing I liked is that the only notions required were two snaps. It has no interfacing, just fabric, lining, thread and two snaps.

It's a good basic bias project.... but before I make the next one, I'll be referencing this Threads Article for treating the side seams... I think there is room for improvement.

Vogue 1034 - finished finally

2011-03-10T00:03:00.000-05:00

These jeans are my day to evening version. They have NO pockets, because I didn't want any bulk anywhere. They are nice and long, and I can wear them with all those super high heels in my shoe wardrobe.
Really, I have two RTW jeans that I wear with flats or sneakers, I was missing this version, a nice dark wash high heel dressy version. Without all of the other details it also allowed me to concentrate on fit.

Here's a WIP shot of the inside yoke. Even though there are no pockets, I popped in one layer of the pocket lining to control the stretch of the front fabric, giving it a better line. You can also see all of the seam allowance markings before I settled on the final width.

I had fun with these, with the calico inside (my little secret), and the Dritz jean button.

New Storyboard Mini Wardrobe for Spring

2011-03-08T10:37:00.000-05:00

I haven't completely given up on the LMB trench coat, but it's going to the backburner. I have some silk faille that would look better for that pattern and I'm in a Navy frame of mind. So here's the next plan, and an attempt at coordinating pieces to lend a little more versatility to my wardrobe. It also doesn't hurt that all of the pieces are also needed for my 10 Essential pieces.

Trench coat... moving on to LBD.

2011-03-06T22:15:00.000-05:00

The LMB trench is not looking very good right now.... there's quite a bit of ease in the sleeve caps, I'll be honest with you, if it were a lightweight fabric or a wool I wouldn't hesitate to go forward with this pattern, but the fabric for this project is thick and heavy and the cap won't "shrink" well, I don't want gathers and I don't want to fuss with the sleeve cap. I think I should look for a pattern that doesn't require sleeve easing... so back to the patterns I go....

Trench Muslin

NEXT!!
The Basic Black dress :) or the White Shirt or the skirt..... sigh, decisions decisions...

Vogue 1034 - we're getting closer.

2011-03-06T01:05:00.003-05:00

Wow, working with some of these stretch fabrics is almost like working with knits. Here's where I am with the jeans. They have a 2" seam allowance from waist to knee. I still need to hem them and finish the yoke, and I need to tweak the waist portion a bit, because the instructions call for stay tape at the waist edge and they are a little tight just at the edge, but the rest of the pants are fine. I had decided to forgo all of the pockets because I wanted them to be without any bulk, and just plain this time around. As a test garment they are pretty darn good. Most of the fitting issues have resolved themselves with the seam allowance and the various adjustments made to the pattern, which included, swayback adjustment, flat bottom and reshaping the sideseams.

I've decided not to hem them yet, I'll throw them in the wash a few times to make sure all of the shrinkage is out.

Maybe I need to concentrate on some NVPL panties. Tomorrow I cut out the trench.... hopefully.

There is another way to make these same pants, that I think I will try next. It is not as hyper-fitted as mine are and have a the nice feature of creases front and back on the leg that helps with slimming (and I'm all for it).

From Mary Beth at "The Stitchery" blog Vogue 1034.

Keeping track - January & February in review....

2011-03-01T22:18:00.000-05:00

I'm cleaning my machines and sorting through all of my fabric scrap after a very busy January and February.

24 garments - 57 yards of fabric

What didn't get made?
The trench - Still working on the details
The headboard slipcover - trying to find the right fabric in my stash

Also in the pipeline....
Jean muslin... possible candidates.

White shirt (already have a TNT pattern)
LBD muslin - there are many exciting options here so I'll just surprise you :)... and me.

Jean styles

2011-03-01T08:16:00.000-05:00

Has anyone else noticed what's available in jean styles?
We have the skinny jean/leggings....

images from Bergdorf Goodman.

and then we have these, which, I've got to admit I'm tempted, because they look so comfortable, but you would have to wear the heels to give you that long leg look.

images Vogue Magazine February 2010

Recycling a bed topper....

2011-02-28T14:15:00.001-05:00

My sofa cushions have compressed over time, and I had bed topper that I was getting rid of because it had started to sag a bit. Last year, I cut the topper in half and popped it in under the cushions on the sofa, it made the sofa very comfortable. I decided to cover it, because sofa lint was getting stuck in the foam. So I gave it a good vacuuming last night and started.

I had used an electric carving knife to cut it, but as you can see, I had a little difficulty keeping the edges sharp. I rolled out the fabric on the floor and put the cushion on top

I put another layer on top of it, and started to pin one side. Pins along the side

I sewed up the end with the "wings" first, and fixed the corners. Since I had to attack the corners (inner and outer), I finished the rest of it by hand (yes my hands hurt now).

I had been dragging my feet with this project because I have limited space, and the foam is heavy and difficult to manipulate.

Happy to be finished!

And kitty approves!

Glad to have this behind me though.

The topper was a 4" memory foam topper from Overstock.com, purchased 5 years ago. It lasted 4 years with light use before it started to get that dent around hip level in the foam.

Kwik Sew 717 slip

2011-02-28T00:42:00.000-05:00

I needed a slip, and I had the perfect flesh tone fabric in the stash, you might recognize it from a previous post. I also made a v-neck cami with the same fabric. I think I'll get a lot of use from it, I have many yards of sheer fabric in the stash that I will be sewing up soon.

The slip has nice lines, and fits very well, but I'd like to make it out of tricot. This fabric is very heavy and has a lot of drape, I think in the heat the tricot might be a better choice, but I'm searching for a matt version of it (not asking for a lot right?).

Vogue 1224 Dress

2011-02-27T13:41:00.000-05:00

While I hammer out the design details on the trench, I decided to cut this dress out. How I laughed when I saw the pattern, it's so small. I measured the front piece and calculated where it would fall on my body, and added 2 1/2" to the center front, added 1" to the back, and 4" to the skirt (because I didn't want a tunic :).

I couldn't get a nice photo of it, the black comes across a little darker in person. I don't like how it looks unbelted, the elastic used wasn't tight enough to hold it, so I belted it, this raised the hemline another 2".

I made adjustments to the pattern including...
2 1/2" increase front bodice length
1" increase back bodice length
4" increase skirt length (although 6" would be better)

I think this pattern would look nice as a blouse or tunic, and I'll try that next time I make it.

Holy Cannoli, what was I thinking?

2011-02-26T07:55:00.001-05:00

My first LMB, I don't have any trench patterns for the 10 essential pieces, and I received two copies of La Mia Boutique from a pattern buddy (you know who you are), and I found two trench coat patterns. One with a 3/4 sleeve and the other with wrist length sleeves (below). It's taken me the afternoon to look through the pattern insert, and some research, to figure out what size to cut. Then I doubled checked after tracing to make sure I followed the right lines.

In this month's issue of Vogue they featured a model wearing a Red Jil Sander trench.

Vogue Magazine Feb 2011

From Style.com

If I win the lottery, I'm getting this trench coat :), I love that red.

In the meantime I think I want to "borrow" the flap welt pockets on the front for my trench, in exchange for the patch pockets. This is not a classic trench, there is no topstitching on it, so I will need to waterproof the seams. It doesn't have the classic trench coat lines, it's a little simpler, and dressier. I'm debating on whether to line it or not.

Did she ever finish that housecoat??

2011-02-25T00:45:00.000-05:00

Step 1. Ignore pattern instructions for seam finishes. It would have been fabulous to do that hand finished overcast, and I think this is why the pattern is unused, the previous owner was probably daunted by all of the suggested hand work. What are sergers for anyway?

It really needed it, this fabric frays wildly...

There were a few challenges, I found two defects in the fabric, one landed on the center back bodice, and the other on the skirt.

Once I tried it on, I couldn't get the cat to stop dive bombing at my feet, he likes the hemline.

The other was the space I needed to lay out the fabric and cut, it was a floor job.

There are just a few things to finish, like the sash, but the majority is finished. I also need to find some larger shoulder pads, the ones in there now, are pretty thin.

Who needs sleep, I don't need sleep...Vintage Housecoat Simplicity 2236

2011-02-24T08:46:00.001-05:00

I don't think the vintage patterns had the same amount of ease as today's patterns have. Some grading was involved with this project.

First I hit the home dec fabric stash again, a nice jacquard stripe silk tafetta.

I didn't want to make this into a dress because it's just too curtain like, but for a housecoat, it is fine. I also needed 6 yards and this was perfect. So I tossed it into the wash, and let it dry in the sun, it is quite wrinkly, but I like it.

I also like the fact that the tafetta doesn't weigh a lot, and since it required so much yardage, it won't feel heavy, and that's important as I expect to float around the house in my 1947 Housecoat. Hopefully it will be completed tonight.

Cynthia Rowley 2406 dress view C finished

2011-02-23T18:23:00.000-05:00

I traced this pattern out last year and never got around to making it. So I'm happy to have it behind me.

This came together in about 5 hours, I made some adjustments (slashed the pattern and added tucks from the neckline to the hemline) because I wanted it to look more like the pattern illustration than what was on the model.
View C

I thought the vertical tucks made it look better.

I think I was successful, but the neckline is not good on me at all, it just makes me look wider, which is not something I want to do. I'll keep this one in the closet and see if after I've lost a few pounds it doesn't look better.

My state of mind...38 yards and counting

2011-02-23T08:07:00.002-05:00

I've been participating in a stash contest, and my personal goal was to get through a 66qt storage bin. Since I've been sewing some thin fabrics, I haven't made much headway, but I'm at about 38 yards since January 1st. So far, it's my personal best, but there the bin sits taunting me. I have a few projects floating around in my head, I don't want to get bogged down with the number and need to focus on what I really need right now.

So here is my list of projects, in priority (but I reserve the right to change things around:)

Trench coat - La Mia Boutique (4 yards)

Headboard slipcover - self draft (4 yards) No pic.

Bathrobe - vintage Simplicity 2236 (6 yards)

slip - Vogue 2978 (actually the slip pattern for that dress) (2.25 yards)

dress - Simplicity 2406 (which I will tweak because I have a little issue with the neck pleats, I want them to fold deeper towards the waist)

I wonder if I can get through this list in 6 days......

Honey where are your wire cutters?

2011-02-22T13:41:00.000-05:00

I understand, it is more secure when buttons are stapled to the cards, but I have sacrificed a nail or two trying to get them off, especially with that last 19 button chiffon blouse project. So here is my painless recommendation, get yourself a small pair of wire cutters, you will thank me in the end.

Make sure they have small tips to get behind the button on the card.

You might want to do this over a sheet of paper or somewhere that you can easily pick up the little wires that will sometimes jump when you've clipped them.

Classic Dress Pants -- finished!!!

2011-02-21T15:10:00.001-05:00

I really like these pants!!

I eliminated the cuffs, so that I can wear them with these shoes. I think the little gold button detail goes nicely with them.

I really like the couture method of setting the waistband, I've used it before on the grey YSL pants, and they give such a nice result, I'm really hooked.

Not a welt tutorial... Vogue 8156

2011-02-20T08:25:00.001-05:00

The pants are almost finished, just a slight tweak on the CB seam, yoke and hem. They are looking pretty fabulous.

At some point in your sewing, you start to read instructions with some skepticism, I have a history with Claire Shaeffer, after experiencing a very expensive UFO last year due to instruction errors. So I read, and reread the instructions looking for questionable practices. I was very surprised that the welt instructions did not include stabilizing the welt opening before stitching and cutting. In her book "Couture Sewing Technique", this is a must. Not sure who checks the finished instructions at Vogue, but they should keep an eye on this:(

The fabric is pinned to the pattern piece beneath it before I applied the stabilizer. The fabric was very soft and drapey, and the grainlines are wiley.

I was so focused on the instructions, and not wanting the welt to fail on some very ravelly fabric. I completed the welt, and realized that I left the first layer of lining off. This wasn't a tragedy, I went back and attached the layer by slitting and hand felling the lining to the welt opening.

It's not perfect but it looks pretty good.

Here are some other online tutorials you might want to check out.
Kathleen Fasanella's tutorial
Palmer Plesch

So two friends walk into Joann's

2011-02-18T15:08:00.000-05:00

Once inside the store they go their separate ways, when friend A finds a soft sided tote, that was so compelling, she shows it to friend B. Friend A starts, "Look at how lovely it is, such a nice color, and look inside, all of the compartments it has, and it's the perfect size, and I can put all of my scissors on this side, and there's a place for thread, and the fabric fits right in the middle...."

Friend B looks up from what was a very concentrated effort at finding the right buttons (which btw, are buy one get one right now!), and says to Friend A, "So go home and make it!"

There was laughter from 3 rows down.

Friend A took the bag back.

So I checked my stash before heading out to Joann's and came back with these buttons for my chiffon blouse. They are very lightweight (plastic), which was important for this blouse. I had thought of some half dome buttons but they were all too cheap looking, or too heavy. The pansy buttons are earmarked for a pair of jeans or a jacket, they are metal and need a heavier fabric to support them.

Joann's is also running their $.99 sale on Simplicity patterns, so I picked up these two.... one of these days I'll try my first "Fabulous Fit" patterns, (that I seem to be accumulating).

This weekend will be finishing up 3 projects, I certainly won't run out of things to do.

Next week, I'll start a trench coat.

Next up.... Claire Shaeffer Vogue 8156

2011-02-17T23:39:00.000-05:00

For the 10 Essentials plan, this will be my Classic dress pant. I will make it in a Navy crepe, I am really excited to start these pants, this pattern has been pulled out of the stash repeatedly with no follow up:)for about 2 years now.

I really like this pant, so I will go slowly with the construction, which will follow the RTW instructions (and a few couture instructions for good measure). I've decided to line the pants as well to help minimize the stretch on this bouncy drapey fabric. I will also remove the carriers, they just look way too long for my eye, I would have considered them if I had enough fabric to do a self belt, but alas I do not.

Not a one day project.....

2011-02-17T14:23:00.000-05:00

After my triumphant (fast) t-shirt project, I thought I could make all other garments in one day... so I was all hopped up on cupcakes tuesday and made significant progress, but between the poorly written instructions, missing information, I spent too much time digging through my sewing books looking for alternatives. This is officially my last Hotpattern project. I've bought two patterns at the same time in 2009, and this was on my pending pile ever since. I have so many others to try including 2 La Mia Boutiques, not to mention the backlog of patterns in my stash... Oy.

This is as finished as it will be until I can pick up the 19 buttons it will need at Joann's this weekend. Besides the buttons, I haven't hemmed it either, partly because I want to think about that front facing a bit more. I might narrow it a bit, but I want a clear head before I make that jump.

Fabric choice on this one was based on stash, crinkle flocked silk chiffon, included in one of my bundle purchases. Flocked fabrics are not what I would normally gravitate to but this was to be my test for this pattern, and I needed to practice on some chiffon (because I have so much of it in my stash). In 2009 I saw this shirt, and wanted it badly, but I didn't have any shirt patterns with a yoke and full sleeve.

(One of these days I'm going to make this blouse)

That's what initially led me to the Metropolitan Criterion Blouse. The style is not what I would call basic, it has some very distinctive full sleeves and blouson at the cuffs. The collar and neckline is also a little different than I am accustomed to, and once I saw what it looked like, I knew I wouldn't wear it, so I'm glad I left it off.

I think it would look good with a high waisted pencil skirt, or high waisted pants, both of which I have patterns for. I might try to "fancy it up" with some black lace in my stash to minimize the effect of the front facing, and untrimmed seam allowances in the yoke which I think can look better. One thing to keep in mind when working with sheer fabrics are the facings and seam treatments. It's important to clip any thread tails, and make sure they aren't "trapped" in the yoke or cuff, because it will drive you to distraction.

I think I might start looking for a shirt pattern that is a little more basic so I can make this shirt... which I believe I will get more wear out of.

This one is going slowly....

2011-02-17T00:38:00.000-05:00

Remember those three projects that were on my list for this week? It's going more slowly than I would have liked.

The black tropical wool pants, well the slider will not go back on the zipper, I will need to rip it out and start all over again.

The polka dot Hot Patterns Metropolitan Criterion Blouse, will be done tomorrow.... I hope (except for the buttons, which will be on sale at Joann's this weekend).

It had a lot of time consuming details....

These are the projects I like.... an infinity t-shirt.

2011-02-15T17:18:00.001-05:00

The ones that you can cut and finish in one day. Last year I ordered a large selection 6 cuts of rayon spandex jersey from Denver fabrics during their 4th of July blowout. Some of them were shiny (the spandex), all were very light weight perfect for hot weather. This one is a little sheer, but I can wear my nude cami under it.

So I cut my TNT t-shirt pattern, and with what was left over...

I started draping...

cut out the panels and serged my little heart out....

This project is next....

Serger attachments... don't procrastinate... Roll Hem

2011-02-15T14:08:00.001-05:00

All this time, I've seen the Babylock finishes and thought I need one of those. I even went to a dealership priced out the different models, sat for demonstrations, thought about how I could afford one.... and today I decided to try one of those attachments included with my serger.

Roll Hemming Attachment

After a foot and plate change and an additional tensioner attached to the top, I have the most beautiful knit edge.

And, a chain stitch to tack all of those loose linings that need to be tacked.

This was so easy, why didn't I do this earlier? Don't procrastinate.

The runaway slider.....

2011-02-15T00:55:00.000-05:00

One step forward, two steps back. I am almost finished with these pants, that are for a friend of mine and I fipped it over after finishing the pockets and zipped the slider up off of the pant. I am annoyed with myself, because for some reason, this pattern that I have made now 3 times, was supposed to be easy. I was just a waistband away from finishing. Sigh. I'll put this aside until I can look at it again, I don't want to do anything in haste.

I have half of the slider in, but the other half is just not budging. I might take it to a cobbler and see if he can coax it back in, my fingers are throbbing from trying.

The only bright side to this is another project I'm working on, which is almost done. A sneak peek below.

I was wondering where my pins went....

2011-02-12T21:20:00.000-05:00

When I realized that in addition to the linen pants I'm working on, I cut out three garments this past week.
This is what is on my to do list for the upcoming week.

Tropical Weight Wool pants (without the roll up cuff & tab)

Flocked chiffon blouse - (to test the pattern)

Blue Wool Crepe pants - (I have been wanting to make these for a dog's age)

No. 10 Sweatsuit Alternative... Upholstery Fabric :) Pants

2011-02-12T12:06:00.000-05:00

Sticking to the upholstery fabric theme, there is a heavy Irish Linen in the stash, bought last year during a thrift store fabric frenzy. In my mind, it has been, a curtain, headboard cover, shower curtain and now, pants! It is a closed weave, it's soft, and it's been laundered, which means it's softly wrinkled. Since my industrial iron is out of commission, I can't get all of the wrinkles out, but they aren't that offensive. I've decided to have another go at the HP Marrakesh Pant muslin from last year. I'm at the point where I need to attach the waistband but I have a wee challenge.

Originally the pocket linings were supposed to be sewn down to the front pant.... I don't want to. So now the pocket openings tend to open a bit if you don't sew them down. I am looking for alternatives to keep the pocket closed.

No. 4 White Shirt Muslin finished

2011-02-11T12:45:00.002-05:00

I like this shirt, sure it has a crazy print, but the white version won't. The french cuffs finish around the first knuckle, but are perfect when folded up.

I still have the buttons to pop in, need to go button shopping next. Definitely a good basic shirt, very comfortable, and it doesn't constrict movement... I hope it's the same once I change the armhole and sleeve, and make it up in a non-stretch fabric:)

No. 4 White Shirt - Muslin fitting

2011-02-10T10:55:00.000-05:00

For the White Shirt entry for the "Tim Gunn 10 Essentials sew along" I have an idea for the type of shirt I want. It's a combination of shirts that have been in my closet through the years. Most of my favorites have been silk, so it will be interesting to see if I can interpret the same details in cotton (and still like it as much).

I know Tim Gunn wouldn't approve, but I have kept some of my favorite clothing, (yes those things that are way too small), hoping to recreate them at some future time. This is one of the shirts....(I would show you pics of me in it but as it's 4" too small, I don't want to scare anyone away from my blog:).

What I like about this shirt, is the fit through the body, and the high armhole, it is also very classic and you can wear it with anything.

I also had a Chloe shirt from the 80's which had a high military foldover collar, and long cuffs, which were held folded with a million pearl buttons. That shirt, sadly, is gone, but I did keep the buttons.

I found an OOP Donna Karan pattern as a starting point.

Here is the 1st attempt. I know the fabric is crazy busy, but I don't have a lot of stretch fabric in the stash, and this pattern calls for it, and recommends a silk charmeuse. Matching the pattern was not even an option here, this was a very poor quality print job. The cuffs aren't in yet, and I wanted to capture this stage of the project, so I have an idea how long the sleeves are without the cuff.

So on the plus side,
I like the fit through the body.
I like the hidden button placket
I like the height of the collar

This is what will change,
the collar needs to be tweaked, I don't like the "floppy" factor at the front.
The armholes/sleeve cap will need to changed, this is a drop shoulder and for what I have in mind I wanted a higher armhole with fitted sleeve.
I may shorten it a bit.

No fabric is safe from a stash bust....

2011-02-08T15:46:00.001-05:00

I don't know what it is about the Ikea fabrics that just makes me buy them. I bought two cuts purely because of the design, I told myself I would make some accent pillows, but there they sat in my stash.
When I was going through my cotton pile I found this blue print, and remembered that I had at least one orange fabric to go with it.

Here it is with a $1.00 a yard fabricmart cotton stretch satin.

So I made a skirt, but now that I've tweaked the waist a little, I need to address the waistband. Not sure whether to go with a self facing, or an orange waitband. I might even line it with a cotton sheeting, if I can find it in my stash. I think it needs a squirrel:).

The pattern comes from a fitting shell I made last year, I really just wanted to get to a place where I could create a block to draft my own patterns (I was curious to see if this pattern would do it).

After that experiment, I took the moulage course with Kenneth King, which produced a superior block.

Simplicity 7229 1 hour skirt

2011-02-07T22:24:00.001-05:00

I rushed through this pattern, but not without adding a lining to it. It's a poly crepe that has been in the stash forever, I love the color but the hand is pebbly and rough. This pattern is shamelessly easy, and I liked the idea of a little bias skirt. I have a few favorite skirts that are knee length that I wear often.
Forgive the crooked pic, I've had a headache all day, and after four tries, I just stopped trying to get it level.

It looks pretty good, and it will be wash and wear, but the yoke forms a horizontal tuck sometimes, that I'm not really happy with.

I cut the skirt on the bias, and added a lining to it (which is also cut on the bias). I think with a little shaping on the yoke, it might improve. It says on the pattern that the waist sits 2" below your natural waist, but that doesn't improve it. Not a couture garment but, if you need a quick pattern for beach wear, or pajama bottoms this might be it. Once you wear a t-shirt over it you can no longer see the yoke.

Wrap Around Skirts... vintage inspiration?

2011-02-06T10:07:00.003-05:00

I've seen an awful lot of wrap around skirts on the runways lately, it looks very modern vintage to me.... and they should be easy to make. Style.com pre-fall 2011

Carolina Herrera

Chloe

Rag and Bone

YSL

DVF

Frankenpattern McCalls 6282 Palmer Pletsch cowl neck top (1 yard)

2011-02-05T20:43:00.002-05:00

I made this top a few days ago in a poly knit, with the lining. This time I frankenpatterned it. I decided to remove the shirring, lining, and made it a cap sleeve. There are 5 pieces to this pattern, when you look at them side by side, the body pieces are longer than the lining. That's because the shirring lengthens the piece.

BODY FRONT

For the front, I traced off the body piece, from the side seam notch up (armhole, neckline), and the lining piece from the side seam notch down. This gives me the fold over for the cowl (for a clean finish), and eliminates the shirring.

I used the lining piece for the back of the t shirt.

The sleeve piece I placed on the fabric, as much as I could to capture the cap and 4" down the sleeve seam. I later played with it, folding it up to make it even shorter to get the right sleeve length. They have a short sleeve option, but I just didn't have enough to make it.

Since I only had a 1 yard piece I used the lining piece for the back of the t shirt, and for the front, I traced off the body piece, from the side seam notch up, and the lining piece from the side seam notch down. This gives me the fold over for the cowl (for a clean finish), and eliminates the shirring.

This was a perfect solution for me, because I knew the pattern already fits, I like the armhole and sleeve draft, and it all fit on 1 yard of fabric.

The ugly side of sergers

2011-02-04T23:28:00.000-05:00

It's when you have to rip up something that's gone wrong. Now I did baste and try it on before setting the neck piece, but it just didn't work, so it was converted to a v-neck.

And a little ackward reinforcing....

tada!!

and here is the nude cami from the same pattern...

So what to do next? I'm working on Tim Gunn's 10 Essential pieces, and have only finished one item. I'll be busy this weekend.

1 yard t-shirts classic t and camisole.

2011-02-04T13:34:00.000-05:00

My 1 yard knits have been washed, dryed and lightly steamed. To warm up, I've made a simple semi fitted white t-shirt (because it's always nice to have)and because I didn't have a coordinating rib fabric, I followed the instructions on Craft Stylish (Threads Magazine) website for a classic crew finish using self fabric. Sadly I think the knit itself is not a good fit for this finish.

Even after a nice pressing, the neck piece itself does not recover as I would like. The next attempt will be for either a narrower strip for the crew neck or v-neck. Inspired by the cowl neck, I decided to finish the hems using catch stitch, which I think makes it a little dressier. I the cowl neck has me thinking about better finishes on my t-shirts:)

From the same t-shirt pattern, I've made this nude color cami, which I love!! It was on my wish list last year. The spandex is almost a perfect color match to my skin tone, and I have a few shirts that need a little something underneath. It's such a good match, it's even a little scandalous!! The edges will be hand rolled.

So of course the hand finishing on garments isn't fast, so this will be my sewing for today, which will allow me to think about what's next. A little zen time.

Sweatsuit alternative

2011-02-02T15:53:00.000-05:00

One of the items on Tim Gunn 's 10 essential pieces is a Sweatsuit Alternative.

"Sweatsuit Alternative - As mentioned before, women wear fewer skirts and dresses these days. But some women have taken casual to the extreme and spend days on end in sweatsuits. It is possible to be casual and comfortable without looking like a slob. Find a comfortable material (that's why this doesn't say jeans again – denim is not as comfortable as a nice soft cotton) that you would want to wear every day. It could be khakis, cords, a cotton dress, or much more.

Tim Gunn's 10 Essential Elements: Must-Have Basic Wardrobe Pieces for Any Woman.

Of all of his items, this is really the one I struggle with the most, so I went to Style.com to see what some of the editors are looking at in this category.

Gabbana

Trussardi

Suno

Benneton

I think I might look for some shirt dress patterns. I have a few swiss cottons in the stash that I would really like to sew up.

McCalls 6282 Palmer Pletsch cowl neck top

2011-02-01T18:19:00.000-05:00

Just when I was ready to give up, I found some dark teal polyester knit. This pattern looks soo simple, well it's not really that simple. It is lined, I like the lining, it cuts down on the clingy property of the poly knit I used. So you don't see bra markings as you would with say a simple t-shirt. The construction I thought was overly complicated. The lining and fabric are joined at the neckline to start, then you gather around the center back and side seam waist. You are told to pull the lining out of the way as you assemble the body, and lastly, you assemble the lining, then you pop in the sleeves. I will treat the lining and body as one next time, and remove the gathers, just to change things up.

1 yard knit tops

2011-01-31T13:19:00.000-05:00

My McCalls 6282 cowl t-shirt, the one I wanted to try out before my company arrived 2 weeks ago.... well last night I cut out the lining, and then my fabric was a little under what was required. I'm beginning to think I'm not supposed to make this top. I've uncovered 8 cuts of knit fabric that are 1 yard or under, so I think I'll focus on that until I can find a cut that is 1.5 yards.

Here is my selection of rayon knits, a simple t-shirt is really all I'm aspiring to at this point.
There's a navy and black light sweater knit, a black, white t-shirt knit, print knits, and a metallic knit.

The print knits were purchased to go with pieces already in my wardrobe. I'm just happy they actually coordinated once they arrived.

I have a chartreuse linen skirt.

And a tropical wool grey heather pant.

All done Donna Karan Vogue 1220

2011-01-29T21:46:00.002-05:00

Really comfortable and very cute, it even nips in at the waist,

and it has pockets,

and I can never get enough of using my vintage buttonholer.

I left two buttons undone at the hem for this shot, now that I've worn it for a little while I can say that it needs a little something to keep it closed at the center front bust, otherwise it does open a bit. This was a problem I didn't have on the other DK style (wrap blouse OOP pattern 1961) because it was cut on the bias, this pattern is not. The dress on the envelope is made up in a dark charcoal, which I think is perfect for this style. It's just the type of fabric I would walk right by because unless it's made up in a dress I would think it boring.

Here I've rolled the sleeves up a little more and used a contrast belt instead of the self fabric belt.

I'll be making this one again.

Fabric quality inspection and pattern layout

2011-01-28T14:55:00.001-05:00

Well I hope there's enough of this fabric now that I've had a good look at it. This was part of a mystery bundle it a stretch cotton from Fabricmart. It's like nothing else I have in the stash, but as I was laying it out I noticed some irregularities. Some black circles were darker than others on the back, so I flipped the fabric over and had a closer look.

The circles on the top pic, are on the back of the fabric. The pic on the bottom are also on the back, notice that the ones below are darker, and it's the same design repeat.

I'll do my best to avoid the light band, where it looks as if they were changing threads out on the embroidery machine because around that same area on the face, there are loose thread ends.

The front piece on the pattern is very large, so it may be difficult to avoid this area. If it can't be used, I'll pop this back into the stash, with my notes and look for something else.

Here's how I've marked it to avoid cutting into the areas.... painters tape:) I've marked the areas with defects, then again at the selvage so I can leave these areas as space between the pattern pieces.

Guess what I got today?

2011-01-27T19:51:00.000-05:00

Donna Karan Vogue 1220, Joann's is having their sale today and tomorrow, and here's the fabric.

One of the few stretch cottons I have in the stash. The pattern calls for stretch broadcloth, stretch linen, stretch crepe. It takes 2 7/8 yds of 60" fabric.

And of course I need a slip for it, because it's closer to a shirting fabric. So I'll be making the Folkwear pattern again.

And of course I'll have to wait to do my knit tops because I had to hide some things in the attic to make room for the guest I have, that is off for a few days and back on Saturday.

Ohhhh Jackets Spring 2011.....

2011-01-23T14:23:00.000-05:00

Burberry Cotton Twill $2,195

Even incoming stories of snow are making me long for spring. Here are some of my favorite jacket styles. Burberry, really caught my eye, it's worth visiting their website (they have some ruched glove leather that is very unusual). http://www.burberry.com/

Burberry Bonded Leather $3,995

L'Agence Python stamped leather Jacket $890

Rag and Bone Wool and leather jacket $1,045

Kimono Sleeve dresses

2011-01-21T01:40:00.001-05:00

On the hunt for more simple dresses, the 80's really are back. These dresses are very easy to make, not much of a shape, really relying on drapey fabrics for movement.... can't find a pattern for it but all of these are current and expensive.

Duro Olowu $1,400.00 100% Silk

Pucci $695.00 Viscose Elastene

Diane Von Furstenburg $345.00 silk (it's a bargain by comparison)

Alexander McQueen $8,655.00 Embroidered silk gazar & chiffon

This one is not so simple but it does have the kimono sleeves and it has a waist for those of us who need it.

What looks more expensive... tank tops answered

2011-01-19T19:20:00.000-05:00

To my eye, making these is all about finding the right fabric.
This is a bit of a challenge to do online because we can make a better judgement in person, one of the downfalls of online shopping, it's the same with shopping for fabric. It is also difficult to judge the construction aside for how it looks on the model.

Top to bottom.

5. Armani - Rose Plisse tucked silk $425 dry clean only Italy
Not even a knit, not really a fair comparison, as this one is woven and has princess seams.

7. McQueen - Modal $355 dry clean only Italy
It's pretty isn't it?

6. Behnaz Sarafpour - cotton jersey $345 dry clean only USA
Cotton jersey & lace

2. Ralph Lauren - 70% cashmere 30% silk blend $298 dry clean only Imported
I love the color of this tank

3. Gaultier - polyamide $275 dry clean only Italy
It might look better in person, but personally I thought this looked like a cheaper version.

8. Armani - Viscose Elastane $215 dry clean only Italy
The strap width threw me, it competes with the cheapest tanks but you'll notice it's shorter and the drape at the waist looks to have more body.

4. Ralph Lauren - pima cotton rib $68 Machine wash Imported

9. Splendid - Cotton 90% /spandex 10% $48 Machine wash USA

1. James Pearse - cotton jersey $45 hand wash USA

What looks more expensive?

2011-01-18T23:56:00.001-05:00

I'll be having company this weekend, (doesn't it always happen everytime I'm on a roll), so I've been thinking about what makes a garment look expensive. For your homework...... this one is easy, I've perused the web and have picked a garment that is easy to make. So any of these take the same amount of effort to make, but which one looks more expensive??

Is it the cut of the neckline, the lack of wrinkles on the side seams, the fit, the color, the width of the strap, the angle of the straps, do the armholes appear the same, is it the length of the tank?
Tomorrow I will identify all of the t-shirts, try and pick the most expensive one:)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

1 - 1 3/8yd tops McCalls 6282

2011-01-18T00:28:00.002-05:00

This should go quickly, and there are a few knits I need to move through. These are the kind of pieces that I reach for, a t-shirt with a little flair.... and the best part, they take so little fabric, 1 yard for sizes 8 -12, 1 3/8 yards for sizes 18-22, they also call for lining on the pattern 3/4 yd of 60" tricot lining for all sizes. I might try it without the lining to see what happens:). The pattern also has dress variations.

I have two knits one a cotton spandex from fabricmart,

and the other a Missoni type textured polyester knit.

I also have a few more expensive knits in the stash, that I have very little yardage of, so if this works, I might be able to finally cut into the good stuff.

The night shirt is waiting for a 1/2 yard cut of fabric that is in the dreaded misc tubs.... as soon as I find it, I'll do that next.

All done!! Orange Nightgown

2011-01-16T18:26:00.001-05:00

Finished, complete with stray thread....

Aside from a little buttonhole trouble, it's finally finished!! I think I still need to add a little snap right under the tie to keep the overlap tidy.

This is why you don't get rid of your mismatched buttons.

Update: Last night was my test run for comfort. I learned an important thing, while this is a cute little garment, I found it to be uncomfortable to wear to bed. It needs more ease built into the underbust seam. The next version will have more width in the back, with the addition of elastic to keep the lines intact.

Aaack! more decisions....

2011-01-16T12:50:00.000-05:00

Well this should be finished today, if I can just make my mind up what trim to use on the top edging. Right now the top is looking a little separate from the bottom, so I'm considering, the pink zig zag, or maybe some white bias, or bias and zig zag, Aack!!

I've just tried it on, and I think I'm going to enjoy wearing it, it is very cute.

While I'm thinking about the bib ....

2011-01-15T19:32:00.000-05:00

I decided to work on another version of a nightgown that's been drifting around in my head, I finally sat down and did a little sketch that I'm happy with.

I would like to make this in a charmeuse with a nice scallop edge lace, but to try it out for the first time, I'm using some cotton lawn, and swiss dot in my stash.
I hope to be able to try out some of those featherweight attachments for the fine hemming to come....

Don't write to me to tell me I have Attention Deficit Disorder, hopefully all of these projects will be finished by the end of the week....the quilt is excluded:)

Next project.... the nightshirt

2011-01-15T00:51:00.000-05:00

So sad but time to go.... it's shredded. I made an attempt at this nightshirt last year, which ended up looking nothing like this. It was a good test for the pattern, which should be fine. I am, like millions, trying to shed some pounds, so am tackling the projects that a few pounds more or less will not affect.

The bib will be the focus of my attention. I have a lot of lace in my stash, as well as some embroidered trim.
I really want to use the trim, but not sure if this is a good place for it:(

Old ebay purchase listed as "German antique edging", it looks machine made, but very fine, but the more I look at it, the more I see it on a shirt with a wide shawl collar and the embroidered trim, ruffled and applied to the edge.... or on a robe with a wide shawl collar.

or...

or

Backburner project

2011-01-14T16:33:00.000-05:00

Once upon a time, I used to travel a lot. About 8 years ago I found a quilting magazine while waiting for a plane and I fell in love with this quilt. The zig zag log cabin.

When I returned to the states I went directly to a quilt shop and showed it to the owner who guided me to the fabrics I would need.

I left the store $90 poorer, with 40 fat quarters, that were promptly put in a plastic bin and forgotten about until now. I have serged all of the edges, prewashed and ironed the yardage.

This will be my first quilt, and I'm hoping it will be easy (famous last words), I intend to make up one block and see how that goes. This will be the project I run to, when I'm putting my sewing projects on the backburner, because I want to think it through a little more.

Sleep t-shirt

2011-01-13T13:43:00.001-05:00

This was a sleep t-shirt, since the knit is very soft, thin and lightweight, I wanted modesty panels across the front.

I had decided to try some decorative stitches to hold them in place but my machine was not cooperating. I think if I were to try this again, I would spend more time practicing on the actual fabric. I had done a test run to check for elasticity. The problem was that I didn't run it for a long enough distance, the test strip was 10", and some of the actual runs were closer to 20". The machine started developing knots on the underside intermittently, which interferred with the decorative stitch. The other consideration is that there is a direction to the decorative stitch, it was not a mirror image from top to bottom. The decorative stitch selected was a simple scallop edge which means points on top, curves on bottom.

This again is one of the challenges to not following a pattern and going rogue. I put the project aside and thought about how I could save it. I then decided to go with tubes of self fabric to cover the stitching, and since it was a sleep shirt, I left the neckline and hemlines with the serged edges.

I believe this will be the last knit I purchase online without swatches. This is a very fine rayon blend, it was prewashed, ironed and had a very nice sheen. After I joined the shoulders and sideseams, I tried it on last night and wore it for about 15 minutes. This morning when I popped in the sleeves, I notices piling around the armholes.

New Vogue spring 2011

2011-01-12T10:17:00.000-05:00

Sneak peek!! My favorites for the new season....
Vogue 1218

Must ***Vogue 1220 - I have a feeling that this shirt dress is going to sell out, it has such broad appeal, and is a very practical style.

Vogue 1221

Vogue 1224

Vogue 1232

Must*** Vogue 1233

t-shirt non serger finish.. getting the ripples out

2011-01-10T16:30:00.002-05:00

For my second t-shirt based on the same pattern as yesterday's. I decided to do a boat neck, instead of a v-neck. So you can see the cut outs on the original pattern.

The FOE was used on the neckline, and on the sleeve & body hem, I used a technique recommended by Threads Magazine which does not require special tools.

The hems were turned up 3/4", and stitched 1/2" from the edge, and then again parallel (a skinny 1/4") to that stitch line.

Then you trim the fabric, use very sharp scissors for this, otherwise you'll struggle with getting a neat trimmed edge.

Stitch setting 9 stitches per inch
fabric stretched out as you sew (not to the maximum but a gentle pulling, my feed dogs did that for me)
As the fabric relaxes, the stitches loosen up a bit, and will remain elastic. So you really don't need a zigzag or serger to sew t-shirts.

I always give my t-shirts a little press at the hemlines and neckline. Partly because sometimes the FOE can ripple. Use a pressing cloth and cover the area, and then give it a shot of steam and a very quick pressing, that will usually flatten the ripple, and once you wash it for the first time the elastic tends to correct itself.

Before pressing...

After pressing