Patchwork Savoir-Faire for Dior Autumn-Winter 2021-2022 Haute Couture

I'll be back, just finishing up some home work........

A little Sunday nostalgia..... and how one day can change your path and introduce you to a new passion

 Hunting for other threads led me to the needlework box.  Me thinks it's time for a clear out.  As the priority on space is reserved for fabrics and laces, the needlework box hasn't had much attention.  You can finish a blouse quicker than you can finish some of the cross stitch or needlepoint projects.  So here's a tour of the needlework box. It's actually a chronicle of how your life can change in a day. 

After moving from NYC to south Florida in the 90's, it was difficult finding work.  Most of the apparel factories were well over an hour south, through brutal traffic.  I decided to go back to NY to find a job.  I packed up, stayed with friends for a month and got to looking.  After what was 20 interviews, my friends suggested I go to Chester NJ to destress. It was a lovely little town, both sides of the street were tiny store fronts, each a mom and pop shop.  The larger buildings were antique warehouses, there was a quilt store,  hardware store, a Tavern that was serving a traditional Sunday roast, and a needlework store.  

I had finished some needlepoint, but it never really took off with me, so I went in to get out of the rain. The needlework store was breathtaking.  The walls were covered in afghans, framed cross stitch, and there were things people were doing with thread I had never seen before. They made these two Beatrix Potter booklets into afghans with prominent stitches, that looked like 3D they were gorgeous.

 I spent a lot of time just walking back and forth examining everything.  I couldn't make my mind up, what did I want first? Could I even do this, I don't know it seemed impossible?  Where to start.... the store owner delighted at my enthusiasm (this is when you find your people ;)), suggested I start small to get the feel for it, and from there I could go to more complex projects.

My first cross stitch project.... haha, you have to start somewhere.  It's about 1 1/2" x 1 3/8", it's tiny.

My second, third and forth

My fifth, this one should not be attempted unless you have really good eyes, or a magnifying glass, this was for mom. Three threads over single thread on an 18 count aida fabric.

Many more were made and gifted.... here were my project sheets, when I was tracking costs.  Something I need to start again with my quilts.

Then I designed one for my sister in law's mother who loved giraffes.  I couldn't find a nice giraffe, so designed my own, my mother made a sachet out of it, with tiny piping, and filled it with lavender.  I loved this memory because it brought us four girls together. Unfortunately I don't have a photo, only a zerox copy, because I thought I might want to make another... I really should have noted the colors used.

This was the largest and most complex project because of the size and thread changes.  It took 10 years to finish. I kept putting it away, and picking it up again.  It was finally finished during the Gulf war, I forgot to sign it, can you imagine?

So beware, today, you might walk into a place, watch a video, browse through a book that will take your breath away and start you down a new path.  You start with an owl, and end up with an angel, and where else will this lead? No spoilers.....

In the meantime, I have a needlework box that needs to be cleared out and put away again.

Have a great Sunday.

Reverse applique - Thread alternatives

 There are some websites which recommend a substitute for the Alabama Chanin thread.  I've ordered some as well as the AC thread.  So I've taken the time to compare them to see how close they are.

First up

C&C S960 325 yds 68% Polyester, 32% Cotton on top

Alabama Chanin 75 yds 74% Polyester, 26% Cotton  on bottom

The C&C S960, is no substitute, the thread even though it is a hand quilting thread with Glace cotton, it is far too thin.

C&C T3  75 Yds  30% Cotton Glacee, 70% Polyester top - I can no longer find this online, it was in the stash, it is the closest to the AC thread.  There is a another Coats & Clark thread Dual Duty Plus, Button and Carpet thread. 

Alabama Chanin 75 yds 74% Polyester, 26% Cotton bottom

C&C Dual Duty XP 125 yds Heavy 100% Polyester top

It's close, but it's 100% polyester

Alabama Chanin 75 yds 74% Polyester, 26% Cotton on bottom

                                   Alabama Chanin 75 yds 74% Polyester, 26% Cotton on top

C&C  Dual Duty Plus, Button and Carpet thread. ART S920 50yds  75% Polyester,  25% Cotton Glace

This is very close, widely available in limited colors. I bought mine at Joann's who happened to be having a sale on it today.

Now, it could be I'm imagining it, but the AC thread has a smoother feel.  I'll be doing one more test, stitching up a scrap of cotton and laundering to see how they all perform.  In the end, especially with the AC specific colors, you might consider just buying the thread that is already dyed to match your cloth.

Alabama Chanin the wrap - layering, placement, embellishing

 There's a lot of contemplation that needs to take place when planning an Alabama Chanin project.  I've already introduced myself to the fabric by prewashing, but now, we need to explore all of the possible variations and which to choose.  Doing a little online search, which combinations already exist for black and white?  My gut tells me, white on top with cut outs, and running stitch in black thread, knotted in the back, this way, it could be reversible.  Just to be sure, what's already been done?

I guess it all depends on your preference and the level of commitment.  The beaded versions will take far more time.

It's going to be an Alabama Chanin Christmas.... White & Black Organic Jersey washing review

 My first Alabama Chanin project, in my previous post, was made out of a heavy cotton spandex jersey in my stash.  I took advantage of the Alabama Chanin summer sale and purchased some of the organic cotton jersey from the website.  This is just a mini review for those thinking of buying.  It shipped really fast, and was packed with a parchment tissue paper.  When I placed the order, I was going to request that they be put in a plastic bag, just in case.  It's been raining here all week, and wanted to be sure the fabric wouldn't get damaged in the process.  Of course I forgot, but if you order, you might want to request it, because it's not standard.

It measures almost 62" after having it relax a bit.  The selvage edges have a hard edge, probably treated so it doesn't curl uncontrollably, when they take it off the loom.  That hard edge takes up 1" on the white.  Maybe it will get softer after washing, we'll see.  As is, the working width is a bit under 60".

Both cuts have stickers on them suggesting that you wash the fabric before use.  They don't give you instructions... so I've gone to the AC website. You can read about it HERE.https://journal.alabamachanin.com/2017/01/unwashed-fabric/

The website states that there is 3% shrinkage in length = (1"), 1% in width (5/8").  They do send a generous cut, almost 38" instead of 36".   I've thread marked a 4" square, and will throw it in the wash to see where we end up after following the washing instructions.  For the white jersey, I'll be washing it in warm cycle and tumble dry.

True to form, it did shrink 1" in length, and my cut being 38" leaves me with 37" for my yard.  The width, is 58" vs the original 62", However... the website states that the fabric you are purchasing is 56" wide, so it's all good. There is a remnant of the hard edge, and there is rolling on the edges now, but I'm still getting a generous 56" in spite of all of that.

I will say, it feels comforting, out of the dryer, I want to wrap myself up in it and get back in bed.

Conclusion:

It will shrink once you wash it

Despite shrinkage you will get a wider fabric than ordered, and a longer cut.

And ultimately more than the website promises.

I opted to wash and tumble dry, because two layers of  heavy cotton jersey in the final garment may take too long to air dry.

The next project is the beginning of my home made Christmas presents....