Glazed cotton.... and inspiration garment...V&A 19C Czech Republic skirt with Embroidery and Bobbin Lace
When we think of glazed cotton we think of upholstery, floral Chintz, but glazed cotton came in other prints and even solid colors. It turned up at the V&A in the inspiration garment below, an Indigo cotton with resist dye flowers.
Glazed cotton
Glazing is a textile finish that adds luster and smoothness to the surface of the fabric. Many glazed fabrics are plain-woven cotton. A specialized calender (set of metal rollers) called a friction calender, literally rubs the fabric lustrous. Glazed chintz and polished cotton are examples of glazed fabrics.
The Process
The fabric is first impregnated with wax, starch, or a resin solution using a pad machine. The fabric passes through the solution in a bath, then through pad rollers. Pressure is applied so that the solution is forced into the fabric. The pressure on the pad roller squeezes the excess solution out of the fabric. The fabric is partially dried and passed through a friction calender. The friction calender is made up of three rollers. One roller is a padded roller that moves the fabric slowly between two metal rollers. As the fabric moves slowly between the rapidly moving heated metal rollers, the friction creates heat. The fast moving metal rollers polish the fabric. The glaze will be temporary if the fabric has been treated with wax or starch. The finish will be durable if the fabric has been treated with resins. The glazing will be durable on thermoplastic (heat sensitive) fiber fabrics because the friction rollers produce heat.
The fabric is first impregnated with wax, starch, or a resin solution using a pad machine. The fabric passes through the solution in a bath, then through pad rollers. Pressure is applied so that the solution is forced into the fabric. The pressure on the pad roller squeezes the excess solution out of the fabric. The fabric is partially dried and passed through a friction calender. The friction calender is made up of three rollers. One roller is a padded roller that moves the fabric slowly between two metal rollers. As the fabric moves slowly between the rapidly moving heated metal rollers, the friction creates heat. The fast moving metal rollers polish the fabric. The glaze will be temporary if the fabric has been treated with wax or starch. The finish will be durable if the fabric has been treated with resins. The glazing will be durable on thermoplastic (heat sensitive) fiber fabrics because the friction rollers produce heat.
Definition from https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com
Resist Dye
A general term for printing with a dye-resistant substance leaving only the background colored after a washed finish. Originally an 18th century method where a resist paste inhibited the indigo dye.
A general term for printing with a dye-resistant substance leaving only the background colored after a washed finish. Originally an 18th century method where a resist paste inhibited the indigo dye.
Definition from the Schumaker website.
This skirt is a showcase for many crafty expressions.... machine embroidered ribbon, hand embroidery, resist dye (if you want to take that on), bobbin lace.... I may have to try something like this.
I'm picturing a white cotton t-shirt and espadrilles......
Read about the details at the V&A archive..... HERE
Details
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