Saturday, November 14, 2020

Denim Skirt with Vintage Scallops.... and a flat waistband method

I just couldn’t cut into the plaid yet without first making a toile. The denim was purchased at Joann’s for the Australian wildfire project, it was meant for a heavy duty bag, marked as made in Japan, 100% Cotton.  When they stopped taking donations, it was left in the stash.  It is a very heavy weight.... so that brought problems.  


I had tried to make a traditional waistband, but it was so bulky I decided to try something different.

I remember a couture technique that uses grosgrain ribbon, but there was none in the stash.  I thought, couldn't I make my own ribbon, it just needs to be finished on both sides, and the waist would need to be stabilized.

I cut open the original waistband and starting playing with the scallop stitch on the Bernina.  After tweaking the settings....


Scallop on one edge, overlock on the other, approximately 1 1/4" wide


The waist line was stabilized with a cotton twill tape, placed 1/2" in.


Then the waistband "tape" edge was sewn to catch the cotton twill tape.


Then it's folded over and topstitched along the scallop points.  It needs a good ironing, and the gravity feed isn't set up yet, so the backup iron will have to do.
 

I even got to try the invisible zipper foot for the machine, and it looks pretty darn good.

Scallop close up...

The trimming was a bit harrowing...

In the end it produced a very flat waistband, except for the closure area in the back, which will need a hook.  Will still need to work on it a bit to get that area less bulky.  For anyone attempting this, make sure you have bobbins prewound so you don't run out and interrupt the pattern.  The testing and final stitching took an entire bobbin's worth, and part of a second.

Now off to Joann's for a bit of fray check!  May have to try another skirt next!

2 comments:

celkalee said...

Too cute! Great technique too, we did something similar in a Martha Pullen school but it was on linen, sure not on denim! You are a brave soul!

ELMO said...

I was a desperate soul.... a brave soul would have repeated the scallops on the hem ;)