Goshuincho -Temple and Shrine book
A way to commemorate your visit to shrines and temples is by purchasing a Goshuincho, or Goshuin book and collecting the stamps (Goshuin) at each location. For a small donation anywhere from 100 yen to 1000 yen you can request the Goshuin (seen below). From what I have seen it consists of the stamp of the location and the date of your visit. I've read that they sometimes include blessings, and as you can see below, one of the stamps had a painting included.
Goshuincho - Goshuin book
It is recommended that you spend some time at the temple before rushing to get the stamp to show your respect. It's also recommended that you have a separate book for temples vs shrines. As you approach the calligrapher, they ask that you have the book open to the place you would like them to place the Goshuin. I did not know this at the time, and it might explain why they would rifle through the book looking for a clean page instead of stamping the one I had selected, which is what they did at the Sensoji Temple, they looked for another Buddhist temple to place their Goshuin across from, which means the dates are out of order. Also, when you hand something over, whether at the temples or a store, you'll notice they use both hands, as a sign of respect, humility and care. They really must think bad thoughts about Americans, but we are not Japanese.
Differences between Shrines and Temples
Shrines (Jinja) are Shinto places for nature spirits (kami), marked by red torii gates, komainu lions, and focused on purification, while Temples (Otera) are Buddhist sites for enlightenment, featuring Sanmon gates, Nio guardians, often have cemeteries, and host funerals, with shrines being purer/nature-focused and temples more ornate/afterlife-oriented.
- Religion: Shinto (Japan's indigenous faith).
- Focus: Worshipping kami (nature spirits, ancestors) for fortune, protection, life events.
- Key Features:
- Torii Gate: Iconic red/orange gate marking sacred entrance.
- Guardian Statues: Komainu (lion-dogs).
- Architecture: Often simpler, integrated with nature (forests, rivers).
- Rituals: Chōzuya (water purification basin), bow-clap-bow.
- Personnel: Priests (Kannushi), Priestesses (Miko).
- Religion: Buddhism (imported from Asia).
- Focus: Buddha, enlightenment, afterlife, meditation, ancestor worship, funerals.
- Key Features:
- Gate: Sanmon (large, often tiered).
- Guardian Statues: Nio (fierce guardian kings).
- Architecture: More elaborate, often large halls, pagodas, and cemeteries.
- Rituals: Chanting sutras, incense, meditation.
- Personnel: Monks (Sōryō), Nuns (Ama).
The Calligraphy
I liked watching the calligraphers, their brushes seemed to dance over the pages so fluidly and gracefully, it was hypnotic. Gratefully I caught a small snippet below. That's the thing about Japan, everyone seems to be very present, and you can see that they are doing things to a high standard, that they take pride in doing things properly. Which leads me to this encounter.
At one of the hotels, when I checked out, I was handed a single sheet of paper as my receipt. I folded it in three to put it in the envelope, and the employee's face almost deflated. He asked me for the piece of paper, threw it out, printed another and expertly folded it in three and placed it in the envelope. It was an interesting exchange. Maybe he believed my inept folding, (I mean it wasn't perfect but I didn't ball it up either), was a slight on my behalf, to have treated the paper with disregard, was treating him with disregard.
- Susanoo-no-Mikoto: The chief deity, known for defeating the serpent Yamata-no-Orochi, bringing blessings for warding off evil, epidemics, and misfortune.
- Kushinadahime-no-Mikoto: Susanoo's wife, enshrined for marital harmony, matchmaking, and safe childbirth.
- Yahashira-no-Mikoto (Eight Offspring Deities): The eight children of Susanoo and Kushinadahime, representing various blessings.
- Utsukushigozen-sha (Beauty Shrine): Enshrines the Three Female Deities of Munakata (including Ichikishimahime, also known as Benzaiten) for beauty, wealth, and artistry, with famous "beauty water".
- Ōkuninushi Shrine (Ōkuninushi-no-Mikoto): A god of good fortune, matchmaking, and relationships.
- Eki Shrine (Somin-shorai): A deity believed to protect people from plagues and epidemics, linked to the origins of the Gion Festival.
- Ukanomitama no Okami: The central deity, associated with grain, food, and fertility.
- Sarutahiko no Okami: A powerful deity of the land, guidance, and martial arts, often depicted as a red-faced figure.
- Omiyanome no Okami: Associated with water and household prosperity.
- Tanaka no Okami: Another deity linked to rice and fields.
- Shi no Okami: A deity of industry and craftsmanship.
- Messengers: Foxes are considered the messengers of Inari and are found throughout the shrine grounds.
- Symbolism: They often carry symbolic items in their mouths, such as:
- A key: For the rice granary, symbolizing wealth.
- A jewel (tama): Representing spiritual power or the sun.
- A scroll: Symbolizing wisdom or divine messages.
- A sheaf of rice: For a bountiful harvest.
- Amenotajikarao-no-Mikoto (Ame-no-Tachikarao-no-Mikoto): This deity is revered for his immense strength, as depicted in the myth where he physically opened the cave Amaterasu hid in.
- Prayers at Okusha are for: Good fortune, wish fulfillment, strength, and success in sports.
- Tokugawa Ieyasu (Toshō Daigongen): The main deity, representing power, victory, and long life, making the shrine popular for career advancement and success.
- Tokugawa Yoshimune: The 8th Shogun, known for his wise rule and contributions, also enshrined here.
- Tokugawa Yoshinobu: The 15th and final Shogun, who saw the end of the Tokugawa shogunate, is also honored.
Speaking of tanuki, another small shrine, named the Eiyo Gongen Sha, can be found in the shadow of the camphor tree. The shrine houses the spirit of a tanuki deity that, as legend has it, brought a series of misfortunes upon its former residences. However, after being relocated to the Ueno Toshogu in the Taisho period, it became a symbol of good fortune. In a play on words, “tanuki” is homonymous with a phrase meaning, “to outstrip others.” As such, the tanuki is looked favorably upon as the deity of luck and victory, especially by students and new graduates hoping to place a step ahead of the competition come entrance exam and job interview season.

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