Monday, April 22, 2013

Learning from the jacket.....the lined patch pocket

Here are some of the details that I found interesting about the men's wear jacket recently completed.

Pity I don't have a men's form.  I love an inky black fabric, it's just so slimming.
What you can't see is the breast single welt pocket and the two patch pockets.  At this stage I considered keeping it (I know evil!).  What was amazing about this process is how terrible it looked throughout with all of the basting in place (see pic below), but once it was pressed, it really came to life.

The Lined Patch Pocket


This was an interesting pocket, it looks like any other patch pocket but the lining is a pocket, that is attached to the fashion fabric.

Here is the Pocket wrong side with a fold back facing and interfacing attached.

Flip it over and attach the first lining piece.


This is just the first piece of lining attached.

Then form your pocket attaching the second lining piece.


So now you have a pouch out of lining fabric and the fashion fabric patch pocket.

This is what it looks like from the right side.

Here I went back and took the inside lining in a bit more so it would sit smoothly inside the edges of the pocket.


You don't actually have to turn the pouch inside out, this is just to show you what it looked like.


I had to mark these left and right because there was slight shaping to each pocket.
Here I just cleaned it up a bit and did some basting to make sure I wouldn't catch the pocket bag in the edges of the stitching for the patch pocket.  From here it is attached to the body of the jacket at the point where the lining is folded back.  The remainder was placed on the jacket, basted and hand stitched in place, you can see that in the pic above showing all of the basting lines.

This method is very clean and helps the pocket keep it's shape, so there's no worry if you drop your keys in here, they won't mar the patch fabric.


Corinne said...

Like the pocket. It would certainly extend the life of the patch pocket. A feminine version of this would be a forever jacket, do you have another one in you?

ELMO said...

Funny, I think this has pushed me over the "don't cut precious fabric" boundary I had before. This was $60 a yard, and there's nothing in my stash that is as expensive.... and I do need a jacket or two.