Thursday, September 30, 2010

Narrow hemmer part no. 120855

Have you ever used the attachments that come with your sewing machine?  I encourage you to dig them out and start playing.  As part of my Featherweight purchase I received the Narrow or foot Hemmer, which produces the greatest little rolled hem I've ever seen.  If I were to do this by hand, or basting and machine stitching, it would take forever, but with the attachment it goes very quickly. 

Note:
It did not like the bulky flat felled seam allowances on the front.
And the manual suggests you start at an open seam (which isn't really practical when you have closed circular projects like hems or bell sleeves.  With practice however I think you can overcome this.... I'm still working on it.





Vogue pattern 2283 DK bodysuits


I have a number of blouses in my wardrobe I don't wear because they are too sheer. I have a nude colored cami, but it rides up, so I've decided bodysuits might just be the ticket. I have an OOP pattern Vogue 2283 Donna Karan bodysuits. I have made this already but in a fabric that had less lengthwise stretch, so I expect to make a few adjustments to the final garment.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Simplicity 3786






Well I finally got around to finishing the nice lightweight cotton swiss dot summer shirt in time for fall.  Here's when I started it.... Simplicity 3786. http://adonising.blogspot.com/2010/07/simplicity-3786-summer-shirt.html I decided not to cut anything until I had finished this little UFO to be.  Part of what stopped me in my tracks, was the seam treatment.  Since the fabric was sheer, I didn't like seeing the serged seam allowances peeking through the fabric.  So I turned them into narrow flat felled seams.






So I really like this pattern, I had to drop the high bust point, and the elastic insert placement on the back, which is now slightly above the back waist.  The only pet peeve I have was that there is just too much ease on the sleeve cap.  So it's not flat, and it's not gathered enough to make it interesting.

I had changed the sleeve to a bell sleeve, which was not one of the combinations on the envelope, and for good reason.  It looks a little hippie ish with the bell sleeve.  Since I usually wear my shirts rolled up, I'll be taking some width out of the sleeve, and rolling it up permanently.  I'll be making it again in cotton lawn, and I'll be working on a white knit bodysuit to wear under this shirt, as this swiss dot is a little more sheer than I first thought.

Rainy day dark pics.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011 - Obi influence

Ok, I think I'm ready to start sewing again so I've been searching through Style.com for inspiration.
I found Carolina Herrera for Spring 2011 to be really interesting, with little Obi like waist ties, and for me a Japanese minimal quality to some of the pieces.... actually reminding me of the japanese design pattern books.

I really love the double layer floating sleeves, the neckline are flowy and romantic without looking too precious.



I love the ribbon detail down the front, and it's slimming.

Gathered neckline detail.

For all those pieces of precious fabric that you don't have a lot of, this neckline is a good way to showcase it, and I love the skirt.

And as always Carolina herself, shaped like a real woman and looking very chic!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Vintage bobbins

Have you ever bought a vintage machine and gotten a ton of vintage bobbins from the previous owner? They are usually so cute, in an array of bright colors, so charming....
Well hurry up and dig them out because there is a possibility that there is rust growing in the center!!
Thread will hold humidity against the bobbin and rust the heck out of it.  Fortunately I only lost 3 bobbins out of 46, 2 to rust, and the other was bent beyond saving.  I am guilty of leaving thread on the bobbins and never cleaning them out completely but I also don't store them in a humid environment.  These all came from other homes.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Featherweight Case part 6 The Lining

Here's where we are on the case. A few bad days of rain have prevented any further work, but I've made headway today.

I went with the laminated cotton for the inside, just in case any oil spills, I'll be able to clean it up easily.

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These are the side supports for the top shelf.
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Here is the finished inside!!
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Still waiting for the glue to dry.
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to be continued....

Monday, September 13, 2010

Featherweight Case part 5 still cleaning

Well I can't stop cleaning it. There are still just a few little bits of glue left on it, and now it has a Swedish bleached wood effect. So another decision to make.

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Should I just finish it with a stain finish, or should I go ahead and use the fabrics in my stash. Black ultrasuede outside with laminated cotton Kaffe Fasset for the lining.

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Milleflore pattern close up.
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Featherweight Case part 4 - rusty bits

There is metal throughout the case which was a bit rusty. The handle D-rings, the hinges, the locks and the feet. I have decided not to take any of these things off, because I can't do it without further damaging the case, and aside from a little rust, it's all in good condition. With a little help from WD40, a wire brush, and some oil, the pieces are much improved. They aren't perfect but they have character.

Handle D-Ring - before
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Handle D-ring - after
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Locks - before
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Locks - after
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Underside of the D-rings - before
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Underside of the D-rings - after
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The actual handle base is stitched through the wood, it was attached with a chain stitch and cord. All of this was cleaned up below.
Stitching around the D-Ring.

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I really have to hand it to Singer these were made very well.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Featherweight Case part 3

So after a full day of scrubbing, the little guy screamed "uncle" and I stopped.  Tomorrow, I will start to recover him.  I don't recommend doing this unless it is absolutely necessary.  It is a lot of work :( but I'll have an original case with no smell, that is unique.  Fabric selection next....

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I know I can go out and buy a perfectly functioning case, but these were very well made (aside from the falling apart), it really only needs a little glue and TLC. The previous owner left it sitting in water, which was part of the problem. I don't think the replica cases were built with dove tail joints.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Featherweight case part 2

So after the 8 hours, the smell is almost gone.  So I started taking a good look at the case to see what could be salvaged.  Someone had peeled back part of the black outer cloth and used packing tape to secure the bottom.  One the tape was removed the bottom fell off, then part of the side followed, so I decided to test how much of the fabric was still attached and here's what I ended up with.

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You can see how the case fabric was disentegrating, the black dust on either side of the case was the issue.
I think in the end it's a good thing that this happened, so tomorrow I get to scrap off the cloth that remains.

CL featherweight sewing machine works great

Sometimes Craig's List and ebay sellers really don't know that much about what they are selling.  Sometimes they leave off important details about the condition of their items, because in their minds, it looks good for being 50 years old..... sometimes they overestimate their worth.

"All in great working order, with original case"

You picture the original case....

featherweight case

Here's what you get.....

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The machine was in better condition but had rust on it, that was not disclosed by the seller.  So you need to make a decision, you pay their price, you negotiate down, you leave.  You have options.  This is going to be a major undertaking.  Since I don't do this professionally this will mean, it will take me longer, and there will be a lot of research involved. There are also start up costs, but if I ever do it again it will be easier.

So aside from the cosmetic issues it also smells, like mold, which I am particularly sensitive to. There is the missing handle, there is rust.   When I moved the case at the sellers home, black granules rolled off the case and I asked for a garbage bag to save my car.   Once home, it needed to go straight outside, where it is undergoing fumigation. As Dave McCallum (Featherweight guru) suggests a 150 watt incandescent bulb for 8 hours to kill the mold, then it will undergo a vacuuming and bleach rinse to finish.

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Saturday, September 4, 2010

I feel great!!

Yesterday I dealt with something that has been weighing on me for some time and I didn't realize it until this morning when the issue was resolved how much it was affecting me.  I woke up this morning 1/2 a pound lighter, and am ready to start sewing again, as well as sorting through what appears to be a "high tide" of unfinished projects and clutter.

First I will start with getting my bedroom in order, which means laundry, but the project for that room is roman blinds for the closet openings.  I removed the bifold doors because it limited access to the closet.
The openings are 48", with two bifold doors, it closes down to 40" and I have been frustrated enough on many occasions trying to get things in and out so off they came.  In my bedroom, I will be making roman blinds.  In my sewing room, I have already taken care of that issue with linen curtains, mounted high up and I love the way it looks.

old closet...
Guest Room closet

New Closet!! tada
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