Sunday, June 16, 2013

Drafting Your Own Bra Pattern - Foundations Revealed

There is this really interesting website called "Foundations Revealed", normally you would pay to access lessons on this website, but they have an article with drafting instructions on how to draft your own bra.

The prototype
As they say the single dart cup is the easiest version to make.  Once you have it fitting well, they continue to convert the bra to other variations 2 piece cup and 3 piece cup, but you have to be a paying member for that.  They have a number of bra and corset lessons on the website, so it may be worth it if you are ready to explore lingerie.

The Good
- This pattern has produced the best and most comfortable band that I've ever worn
The cup actually fits across the breast
The bust point is good but needs some tweaking otherwise it's pointy (like Madonna pointy)

The Bad
- The bridge was too wide, so if you are going to do this check the bridge width on your most comfortable bra and make adjustments to your pattern before cutting it out.

The interesting
- I made the first muslin using a tricot...... that was just bad fabric choice on my part, start with a woven or non stretch knit cup, then you can start experimenting with other fabrics.

This is a good base to start with but I believe from studying my RTW bra, that the "sprung" factor for the underwire is underestimated for larger cup sizes.  They might address that in the paid content, I'm not sure so if you are thinking of signing up you might ask if  help offered.

I was able to finish one version but can not wear it with the under wire inserted.  The band needs to be adjusted to spring the wire a little more.  It is comfortable but not as smooth as I would like.
I have resorted to studying a RTW version and comparing that to my drafted version to see how they differ.
Of course as I was fearing, I've run out of plush elastic to go any further.

No more bra posts until the next order is in.
I will say you need to stay determined, to embark on this adventure, trying on bras is much more tiring than trying on other garments you are making.

Speaking of ordering supplies.....
Now that Elangeria has closed the suppliers for Duoplex (the non stretch cup and bridge fabric) have shortened, so I'm off to Bra Maker's Supply to get my order in.

Sew Sassy - Has been a long time favorite of mine even thought the site is difficult to navigate.  They do give you the opportunity to buy swatches of practically everything.

Merckwaerdigh on Etsy for patterns and kits - although I've only purchased elastics and patterns I've read that the laces and fabrics are lovely but very soft, which means you might want to purchase Duoplex or Simplex to reinforce cups and bridge.  The supplies arrived in about 10 days from the Netherlands.

Other recommended suppliers but I have not ordered from them.
Fabric Depot Co.- For bra patterns, and kits.

Fabric and instruction
Anne St Clair at Needle Nook Fabrics and some construction pointers on Intimately Yours

Bra Making Sew Along (which has ended) at Cloth Habit


Corinne said...

You have such patience. But each blogger who finally gets it right is more than happy.

ELMO said...

I finally got one that fits, I can't wait to get my elastics in!!