The Traveler Lisette -Simplicity 2246 Invisible pockets and making it your own

Just taking a break from the corset, in favor of 2012 wear for work. Yes I've done this one already but it didn't look anything like this. I bought some Liberty of London to make the pattern then chickened out. What is it about that fabric that defies cutting? (I think it's alive, and I think that's why there's so much of it on ebay, people buy it but can't cut it, so they have it in their stash forever and then sell it.... it's diabolical. For those of you who don't know what the big fuss is about, Liberty Tana Lawn is 21 British pounds = 33 US dollars, and for this project 3 yards = 99 US in fabric alone.)

The original blog post that inspired me to to make it was at purl bee blog

As soon as I saw that version I knew I needed one in a cotton lawn, so after deciding not to cut into the Liberty print, I starting hunting and came across the Anna Maria Horner prints. There was one pattern in particular I liked in a handkerchief motif called Diamond Mine. The problem was it is described as a voile on some online retailers and lawn on others. The real problem is that I had never worked with it, so didn't know what kind of quality I was working with. I finally found one at a reasonable price, it is almost a neon yellow, with bright pink and cocoa brown.

My WIP....



Now, on the first version (mid weight opaque linen) the sleeve seams were overcast and visible when it's folded in a cuff. So I wanted to change that, and this fabric is lightweight almost sheer. I will have to treat the seams differently. On this version I have the option to play and dress it up with more details.

First, I liked the hip pockets, there will be one instead of two and I want it to be invisible.




Testing with scraps, I settle on a prewashed silk dupioni to line it. Now you don't see the seam allowances from the turn under, or the print from the dress through the pocket fabric.



Even teeny tiny seam allowances need to be clipped.


To be truly invisible the pattern needs to match the front of the dress.

Since I changed the construction from the pattern...


Turn down and stitch top of the pocket (inside view).


Baste in place to topstitch.


Back to the first pic... you can almost make out the pocket from the opening.