Sunday, June 13, 2021

The Archer......Grainline Studios Sew Along!!!!

 How many versions are there of this pattern?  Loads!  I purchased this pattern a few years back and never got around to making it.  I have posted over the years, pics of lovely silk shirts with cute prints, and while this isn't my life anymore, darn it, I wanted a few silk shirts in my wardrobe.  My first attempt was cut out of a drapey polyester crepe, and then I misplaced the instructions.  I googled, I sent an email to grainline, then, I found the online tutorial, Yay!!  She does a really good job of breaking the instructions down in manageable bites, I totally recommend it.

Grainline Studio Archer Sew Along

Now be forewarned, this is a little like using your GPS navigation, you can just follow the instructions without thinking....  Why do I say this?  She explains how to make an FBA adjustment, the result is that it will make your garment longer.  If you do this, remember to lengthen the button placket, not that I made this mistake (I sure did).  Other than my hiccup, I totally recommend her sew along, even for the seasoned sewist, it was just fun, and she covers some tips in her videos that are useful.

So this is my shirt, the FBA added a dart which finishes under pocket.  My iron scorched the collar and stand, which is why this looks like it does.  The pockets are too close together when on the body, which is not flattering, the sleeves are too long, and the cuffs too large.  I am happy to have finished it, but it will be donated to my local hospice thrift store.



So I have a dartless shirt pattern that fits me pretty well, and I've laid it over the master archer pattern with their nested sizes to see if maybe there's another size that would have been better. It turns out that the pattern size I picked would have been fine without the FBA.

 

There's a slight curve to my TNT pattern, which I would be doing anyway on the Archer because my hips are slim, interesting. Below, is my TNT pattern on the FBA adjusted pattern, so I'll be trying this again.



The sleeves were about 2.5" too long, which I think is pretty substantial. And the cuffs were really large. I've placed my TNT pattern over the Archer for my size.  In the next go around, the sleeve will be shortened, and the cuff will be narrowed.

As I think about these changes, how can a pattern be so far off?  I believe, I probably could use a smaller size, with an FBA.  The designer states that the default for the pattern is a B cup, and I am a G.  That puts more tissue to the front.  My arms, which are pretty long, and I've made the adjustments on other patterns, are not fleshy or large, which means my wrists aren't large either.  So onto the next one, but boy am I glad I didn't cut into a silk, and I did a toile!

In conclusion, there are a few things I really like about the pattern, the neckline is snug against my neck, I'm thinking the collar would have been nice as well (had I not scorched it).  The sew along and the customer service is excellent.  


2 comments:

celkalee said...

Now it has been ages since I made a silky button-front blouse with pockets but I do recall using silk organza to line the pockets. I took a class, at a sewing expo, I think it was a Louise Cutting or Sandra Betzina class that influenced me. In any case, with ample front endowments, I found that my pockets seemed to lie better, either that or I am delirious and thrilled you are sewing again!

ELMO said...

Silk organza would be a good idea, I'm also thinking leaving them off entirely is another option. Tee Hee, thank you for being here... you're my bud.