Monday, May 28, 2012

Chanel jacket Shaping rounded corners

Progress has been slow, but finally the pockets have been formed, now they need some interfacing, lining and they'll be ready to be attached.  So I thought I'd show you how to shape rounded patch pockets.  This pocket is not the original included with the pattern, these I draped on the jacket.

Up to this point, the pockets have been cut, they have been thread traced.
The next step is to run two parallel lines of stitching at the rounded corners.

Here is a close up, where you can see the thread tracing and the double rows of stitching. One row of stitching on the stitching line, and another 1/4" into the seam allowance.
Step 2 double row of stitching

The next step is to pull up the threads, and distribute the gathers to the corners.  You don't want the gathering to continue to the straight parts of the pockets, we are just trying to tame the curve.
It's also important to note, that you will pull the thread on the stitching line a little, just to start the curve.  Distribute the gathers just at the corner.
The row of stitching that is in the seam allowance will be the one that pulls the seam allowance around to the back, this will be pulled a little more.
Step 3 Gathered corners

Here you see it from the right side (doesn't look like much), but this is where the work is done.
Step 3 Gathered corners right side

You'll know when you've got it, when the corners start to pull back, below the seam allowance has been trimmed from the curve to reduce bulk.
Step 4 adjusting gathers

Here the seam allowance is basted back, with the fold on the stitching line.
Step 5 Basted edges

The pockets still need interfacing along the top edge to reinforce it, but I'm still experimenting with the size and placement, so the pockets are held in place with a few pins.
Pocket placement


Corrine said...

I often struggle with things round, including myself...snicker. Do you use a pressing template to ensure all the of rounded parts are the same. Mine are frequently a bit off, but the template helps I think.

ELMO said...

I have used templates before and they've worked well, however with this I didn't. It was thread traced and clearly marked, so I didn't need it.