Wednesday, January 29, 2020

The chemise, shift, camiseta...




I was inspired.

Never having had a nightgown made of linen, the chemise looked like a cozy option.  Made with handkerchief weight linen, and taking direction from Morgan Donner, the seams were sewn on a machine but flat felled by hand.  



There was a pattern in my stash for the chemise, and I took advantage of it.  Morgan's instructions for a larger bust, were brief,  and watching the video late at night, brief and tired, never a good combination.  The pattern used is Laughing Moon Mercantile Ladies Regency and Romantic Era Corset, Long and Short Versions C 1805 - 1840.
Purchased for the corset (it has straps!!), it makes sense to make the chemise first, so the first layer is done.



The instructions called for a 3/8" flat fell width, which look a little fat to me, but if all goes well, it won't be my last chemise.  There are so many varieties, that someday we may see another lacy version in the future.

Some inspiration for lacy chemise gowns here... Pinterest

Meanwhile.... what I find really interesting is the pattern.  Morgan's instructions call for drafting rectangles and triangles based on your measurements, the Syrian dress looks very similar with a few additions.

Morgan Donner Pattern Sketch


Folkwear Pattern Syrian Dress


The chemise pattern did not have the gores, but does have the shape, it is flared at the hem. The gusset remains, but the neckline has evolved being a separate piece with wider finished neckline.
It's an evolution of the patterns above, and with short sleeves.




What I really liked was the economy of the pattern.  With a little tweaking, I was able to to get my chemise out of 1 1/2 yards of fabric, and as this is my test garment, cheating took place with a seam up the back, and a shorter pattern length.

I actually enjoyed doing the handwork, taking breaks to clean and organize my house. 



With luck, we shall see the finished item the day after tomorrow.. stay tuned.

2 comments:

celkalee said...

This is why I love your blog posts, your expertise shows in everything you do. My hero! You inspire me.

ELMO said...

Thank you C, you're pretty inspirational yourself.